“Leave it” and “drop it” are two of the most practical cues any dog can learn, and in Australia, they can genuinely be lifesaving. From 1080 baits in rural areas to cane toads in Queensland backyards, the list of things a dog shouldn’t pick up is long and sometimes lethal.
The good news is that both cues are straightforward to teach using reward-based methods, and most dogs start responding reliably within a couple of weeks of short, consistent practice sessions. Even better, the training doubles as impulse control work that improves behaviour across the board.
To teach dog leave it and drop it, start with the closed-fist method for “leave it” (treat in fist, reward when the dog looks away) and the toy-swap method for “drop it” (trade what’s in the mouth for something better). Always reward with a different, higher-value treat so the dog learns that ignoring or releasing items pays off. Keep sessions under five minutes and practise daily for two to three weeks before testing around real-world distractions.
What’s the Difference Between “Leave It” and “Drop It”?
These two cues sound similar, but they do different jobs. Keeping them separate in training makes life much clearer for the dog.
“Leave it” means “don’t touch that.” The dog hasn’t picked the item up yet. The cue asks the dog to turn away from something on the ground, on a bench, or approaching from a distance. A dropped chocolate bar, a dead bird on a walking trail, or a neighbour’s cat at the park gate are all “leave it” situations.
“Drop it” means “let go of what’s already in your mouth.” The dog has possession of the item and you need them to release it. A stolen sock, a stick that’s splintering, or a suspicious lump found on a bush walk are all “drop it” moments.
Teaching them as two distinct cues with two different training methods avoids confusion and gives you a tool for every stage of the grab-and-go sequence.
What You’ll Need Before You Start
Gather your supplies before each session so the training flows without interruption.
High-value treats. Diced chicken, small cheese cubes, or Zeal freeze-dried liver bites work well. These need to be more exciting than whatever you’re asking the dog to ignore or release. Plain kibble rarely cuts it for this kind of work.
Low-value treats or boring items. You’ll use these as the “temptation” item the dog is asked to leave. A piece of dry biscuit or a toy the dog finds only mildly interesting is ideal.
Two identical toys. For teaching “drop it,” having two of the same toy lets you swap one for the other mid-game. A pair of rubber tug toys or two tennis balls will do the job.
A marker. Either a clicker or a short marker word like “yes” that the dog already associates with a reward. If the dog doesn’t know a marker yet, spend a couple of days loading one first: say the word, deliver a treat, repeat until the dog’s ears prick at the sound.
How to Teach “Leave It” Step by Step
This method builds from easy to hard in small stages. Don’t skip ahead until the dog is succeeding at least eight out of ten times at the current level.
- Closed fist, no cue yet. Place a low-value treat in your closed fist and hold it out at the dog’s nose height. The dog will sniff, lick, and paw at your hand. Wait. The moment the dog pulls away, even for a split second, mark and reward with a different, higher-value treat from your other hand. Repeat five to six times. The dog should never get the treat in the closed fist.
- Add the cue word. Once the dog is consistently pulling away from your fist without hesitation, say “leave it” just before presenting your hand. Mark and reward the second the dog disengages. Practise until the dog responds to the verbal cue alone, without needing to see the fist close.
- Open palm. Place the low-value treat on your flat, open palm. Say “leave it.” If the dog moves toward the treat, close your hand. When the dog hesitates or looks at your face instead, mark and reward from your other hand. This step usually takes a few sessions to get right.
- Treat on the floor. Place the low-value treat on the ground and cover it with your foot. Say “leave it.” When the dog stops investigating and looks at you, mark and reward. Gradually lift your foot so the treat is partially visible, then fully exposed. Only move to the next stage when the dog can leave an uncovered floor treat on cue.
- Drop it from a height. Hold a treat at waist height and drop it while saying “leave it.” This mimics real life, where food falls from a kitchen bench or a child’s hand. If the dog dives for it, cover with your foot and reset. Reward heavily when the dog watches the treat fall and looks at you instead of lunging.
- Expand to non-food items and new locations. Practise with tissues, shoes, toys, and eventually items found outdoors. Each new item and environment is a difficulty jump, so reward generously and keep sessions short. The goal is a dog that checks in with you before grabbing anything off the ground.
A Staffy named Biscuit had a habit of hoovering up everything on the footpath near her Marrickville home. Her owner started the closed-fist exercise indoors and within ten days had Biscuit leaving chicken scraps on the kitchen floor untouched. The breakthrough came at step four, when Biscuit learned that ignoring the floor treat meant something even better was coming from the owner’s hand.
How to Teach “Drop It” Step by Step
The core principle behind “drop it” is trading. The dog releases what’s in the mouth because something better is on offer. Never chase a dog to retrieve an item, because that turns the situation into a game of keep-away and teaches the dog that grabbing things starts fun chases.
- Two-toy swap. Start a gentle tug game with one toy. After a few seconds, let the toy go dead in your hand (stop pulling, stop moving it). Produce the second identical toy and make it exciting by wiggling it. The moment the dog opens the mouth to grab the new toy, say “drop it.” Repeat the swap back and forth, saying the cue each time the dog releases.
- Toy for treat trade. Give the dog a medium-value toy. While the dog is holding it, present a high-value treat right at nose level. As the dog drops the toy to take the treat, say “drop it,” mark, and reward. Then give the toy back. This last part matters: returning the toy teaches the dog that dropping something doesn’t mean losing it forever.
- Cue before the trade. Once the dog reliably drops the toy when a treat appears, start saying “drop it” a beat before showing the treat. The dog should begin to release on the verbal cue alone, anticipating the reward. When this happens consistently, you can phase the treat to intermittent and use praise or the return of the toy as the reinforcer.
- Practise with real-world items. Gradually introduce the cue with items the dog finds in daily life: sticks, socks, tissues. Always trade for something the dog values. If the dog has something genuinely dangerous, stay calm, offer a jackpot trade (a handful of treats scattered on the ground works well), and collect the item while the dog is busy eating.
Why Trading Works Better Than Taking
Grabbing items out of a dog’s mouth or chasing the dog down teaches exactly the wrong lesson. The dog learns that having something valuable means the owner will come and remove it, which can lead to resource guarding. A dog that guards items may swallow dangerous objects faster to avoid losing them, or may snap when approached.
Trading flips the script. The dog learns that releasing an item means something better appears. Over time, many dogs will voluntarily bring found objects to their owner in the hope of a swap. That’s the ideal outcome: a dog that runs toward you with a suspicious item rather than running away with it.
The Australian Veterinary Association recommends reward-based methods as the preferred approach to all dog training, including impulse control work like this. Techniques that rely on force or intimidation risk damaging the relationship and creating new behaviour problems.
Common Mistakes That Slow Progress
Using the same treat as both temptation and reward. If the dog learns that leaving a piece of kibble earns the same piece of kibble, there’s no real payoff. The reward must be higher value than what the dog is being asked to ignore. Diced chicken beats dry biscuit every time.
Repeating the cue. Saying “leave it, leave it, LEAVE IT” teaches the dog that the cue is a three-word escalation, not a single instruction. Say it once, then manage the situation (cover with foot, block access) and wait for the right response.
Skipping difficulty levels. Going from a treat on the floor in the kitchen to a dead possum on a bush trail is too big a jump. Build through environments and item types gradually. If the dog fails more than two attempts in a row, the level is too high.
Chasing the dog when they grab something. This is the single most common mistake and the hardest habit for owners to break. Running after a dog with a stolen shoe is a fantastic game of chase from the dog’s point of view. Instead, grab a high-value treat, call the dog to you, and trade calmly.
Panicking and grabbing the item. If the dog has something dangerous, fight the urge to pry the mouth open. A dog that is startled or cornered may swallow the item or snap. A handful of treats scattered on the ground is usually enough to get the dog to drop what they’re holding while you collect it safely.
Why These Cues Matter More in Australia
Australian dogs face a unique set of environmental risks that make “leave it” and “drop it” more than just party tricks.
1080 baits. Sodium fluoroacetate (1080) is used across rural and semi-rural Australia for pest control. These baits are lethal to dogs and there is no antidote. A reliable “leave it” could be the difference between a close call and a tragedy. If you walk your dog in bushland or farming areas, this cue is non-negotiable.
Cane toads. In Queensland and parts of the Northern Territory and northern New South Wales, cane toads are a serious risk. Dogs that mouth or bite a cane toad can be poisoned rapidly. Teaching a strong “leave it” around moving animals is an extra layer of protection, though it should never replace supervision in toad-prone areas.
Snakes. Snake season (roughly October through April, depending on the region) sees dogs encountering brown snakes, tiger snakes, and others in backyards and on trails. A dog that will disengage from a moving animal on cue has a better chance of avoiding a bite. Again, supervision and avoidance are the first line of defence, but a trained cue provides backup.
Footpath finds. Cooked chicken bones outside takeaway shops, discarded snail bait in suburban gardens, and rat poison near commercial bins are everyday hazards for Australian dogs. A solid “leave it” makes every walk safer.
When to Get Professional Help
If your dog growls, snaps, or freezes when you approach an item in the dog’s possession, this is resource guarding and requires a qualified behaviour professional. Resource guarding can escalate if handled incorrectly, and a trainer experienced in desensitisation and counter-conditioning can create a safe plan. Look for a trainer who uses reward-based methods and holds a Certificate IV in Companion Animal Services or equivalent. The AVA and ANKC can help you find accredited professionals in your state.
If your dog regularly swallows non-food items (a condition called pica), speak with your vet first. Pica can have medical, dietary, or behavioural causes, and training alone may not resolve the underlying issue.
Frequently Asked Questions
At what age can you start teaching leave it?
You can start teaching a basic version of “leave it” as soon as a puppy comes home, usually around eight weeks old. Keep sessions extremely short (one to two minutes) and use very high-value rewards. The goal at this age is to build a positive association with the cue, not to expect perfect impulse control.
What if the dog won’t drop a high-value item?
If the dog won’t drop an item for the treat you’re offering, the trade isn’t valuable enough. Upgrade your reward. Try a piece of hot dog, a smear of peanut butter on a spoon, or a handful of treats scattered on the ground. If the dog still won’t drop it, don’t force it. Note the item’s value and use it in future training sessions to practise the trade.
Can you teach both cues in the same session?
It’s best to teach them in separate sessions, especially at the beginning. Dogs learn faster when cues are distinct and not mixed together. Once both are reliable individually, you can practise them in the same session, but keep them clearly separate—for example, a few “leave it” reps, a short break, then a few “drop it” reps.
How long until the dog responds reliably outdoors?
This varies widely by dog and training consistency. For a dog with a solid indoor foundation, expect to spend two to four weeks generalising the cues to different outdoor environments. Start in a quiet backyard, then a low-distraction park, then busier areas. Always reward heavily in new locations. Some dogs may take months to be reliable in high-distraction areas like bush trails.
Australian Veterinary Association, “The Use of Punishment and Negative Reinforcement in Dog Training” — https://www.ava.com.au/policy-advocacy/policies/companion-animals-dog-behaviour/the-use-of-punishment-and-negative-reinforcement-in-dog-training/ — Positive reinforcement recommendations, position on reward-based training as preferred method
Australian Veterinary Association, “Reward-Based Training: A Guide for Dog Trainers” — https://www.ava.com.au/siteassets/policy-and-advocacy/policies/animal-welfare-principles-and-philosophy/reward-based-training-brochure-web.pdf — Reward timing principles, impulse control training foundations
American Kennel Club, “How to Teach Your Dog the Leave It Command” — https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/learning-the-leave-it-command/ — Closed-fist progression, floor-to-real-world training stages
American Kennel Club, “How to Teach Your Dog to Drop It” — https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/teaching-your-dog-to-drop-it/ — Trading method for drop cue, troubleshooting tips, toy-based training
American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, “Position Statement on Humane Dog Training” — https://avsab.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/AVSAB-Humane-Dog-Training-Position-Statement-2021.pdf — Evidence base for reward-based methods, risks of aversive approaches to impulse control