How to Teach “Place” or “Go to Bed” Command

The place command teaches a dog to go to a specific spot — a bed, mat, or raised cot — and stay there calmly until released. It sounds simple, but it’s arguably the most useful cue most owners never bother to train. Once a dog knows place, you’ve got a solution for door-charging when guests arrive, begging at the dinner table, underfoot chaos while cooking, and that special brand of mayhem that erupts when the delivery driver knocks. how to train your dog to wait at doors

Training commands like ‘place’ can be especially rewarding for adaptable breeds, such as the Filipino Aspin, known for their intelligence and eagerness to learn.

For breeds like the Old English Sheepdog, mastering the place command can be especially helpful given their size and grooming needs, ensuring they stay in a designated spot while you manage their coat.

For breeds like the Kuvasz, mastering the place command is particularly important due to their strong guarding instincts and independent nature.

Active dogs like English Springers benefit tremendously from place training — it gives them an off-switch when their natural energy levels might otherwise keep them constantly on the move.

For breeds like the Parson Russell Terrier, teaching the place command can be particularly rewarding, as their high energy and intelligence make them quick learners when properly motivated.

If you’re looking for a breed that’s naturally enthusiastic and eager to please, consider the Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier, known for its joyful and affectionate nature.

For breeds like the Schipperke, mastering the place command can be particularly useful given their high energy and curious nature, helping them settle in a designated spot when needed.

For breeds like the Wire Fox Terrier, mastering the place command can be particularly useful given their high energy and tendency to dig or chase when bored.

Working breeds like the Giant Schnauzer excel at commands like ‘place’ due to their intelligence and focus.

For breeds like the Puli dog, teaching the ‘place’ command can be particularly effective given their natural intelligence and ability to focus on tasks.

Small but mighty breeds like the butterfly-eared Papillon often master the place command quickly thanks to their eagerness to please and high intelligence.

Teaching the place command can be particularly effective for small breeds like the English Toy Terrier, which thrives on having a designated spot to relax.

The place command is particularly valuable for intelligent working breeds like the Polish Lowland Sheepdog, giving them a constructive outlet for their natural independence while maintaining household boundaries.

If you’re working with a particularly vocal breed like the Finnish Spitz, teaching the ‘place’ command can be especially helpful in managing their energy and focus.

The place command works exceptionally well with herding breeds such as the Rough Collie, whose natural inclination to observe and protect makes them quick to adopt this boundary-respecting behavior.

For breeds like the Swedish Vallhund, mastering the ‘place’ command can be particularly rewarding, given their natural inclination to stay active and alert.

For breeds like the Norwegian Elkhound, mastering the ‘place’ command can be especially beneficial given their strong hunting instincts and need for mental stimulation.

For breeds like the Lurcher, mastering the place command can be particularly useful given their mix of high energy and couch-loving tendencies.

For high-energy breeds like the Portuguese Water Dog, mastering the place command is especially valuable—their natural stamina and intelligence mean they thrive when given clear boundaries and jobs to focus on.

For breeds like the Standard Poodle, mastering the “Place” command can be particularly rewarding due to their high intelligence and eagerness to learn.

Certain breeds, such as the Sloughi, are naturally inclined to rest calmly in designated spots, making them ideal candidates for mastering the ‘place’ command with minimal effort.

Teaching the place command is especially useful for larger breeds like the St Bernard, helping them settle in a designated spot rather than taking over entire pieces of furniture.

For breeds like the Icelandic Sheepdog, teaching the ‘place’ command can be especially useful given their high energy levels and tendency to follow their owners everywhere.

For larger breeds such as the Newfoundland, mastering the place command can help manage their size and ensure they stay calm in designated areas.

For larger breeds like the English Mastiff, teaching the “place” command can be particularly useful, as it helps manage their size and encourages calm behaviour in designated areas.

For breeds like the Shiba Inu, mastering the place command can be particularly rewarding, given their independent nature and strong will.

For strong breeds like Rottweilers and working dogs, mastering the “place” command is especially valuable, as it channels their natural energy into a structured behavior that reinforces calmness and control.

For larger breeds like the Pyrenean Mountain Dog, teaching the place command can be especially useful given their size and tendency to patrol spaces.

For breeds like the Dobermann, mastering the ‘place’ command is especially important due to their high energy and need for structure.

For high-energy breeds like the Catahoula Leopard Dog, mastering the place command can be particularly challenging but incredibly rewarding, as it helps channel their intense drive into a calm, focused behavior.

For breeds like the Miniature Poodle, mastering the place command is especially important due to their high energy and intelligence, ensuring they have a designated spot to settle when needed.

For breeds like the Eurasier, mastering the place command can be particularly rewarding due to their naturally calm temperament.

Small breeds like the Toy Poodle often excel at learning commands like “Place” due to their intelligence and eagerness to please, making them a joy to train.

Teaching the ‘place’ command can be particularly beneficial for energetic breeds like the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, helping them channel their focus and energy into calm behavior.

Teaching the place command to a breed like the Standard Schnauzer can be particularly effective, as their natural intelligence and eagerness to please make them quick learners.

For breeds like the Korean Jindo, mastering commands like ‘place’ can be particularly challenging due to their independent nature, but it’s essential for their safety and your peace of mind.

For giant breeds like the wrinkled Neapolitan Mastiff, mastering the ‘place’ command is especially useful to manage their size and prevent furniture damage from their enthusiastic lounging.

Teaching the ‘place’ command can be particularly effective with breeds like the Miniature Schnauzer, which thrives on structure and enjoys having a designated spot.

For breeds like the Skye Terrier, mastering the place command can be particularly rewarding, as their natural loyalty and calmness make them quick learners in staying put until released.

For breeds that excel in calmness and focus, the Dandie Dinmont Terrier stands out with its dignified presence and ability to stay composed even in stimulating environments.

For breeds like the Coton de Tulear, teaching the ‘place’ command can be particularly rewarding, as their playful yet obedient nature makes them quick learners.

For breeds that naturally take to the “place” command, the Keeshond is an excellent choice, as they thrive on companionship and staying close to their owners.

For those who love small but mighty dogs, the Dachshund breed is a perfect example. Their determination and intelligence make them quick learners, though their independent streak can sometimes make training a fun challenge.

For breeds like the Sarplaninac, mastering the place command is essential, as their natural guarding instincts require them to stay calm and focused in one spot for extended periods.

Small breeds like the Russian Toy often benefit from the ‘place’ command, as it helps them feel secure and gives them a designated spot to relax in busy households.

When teaching the place command, breeds like the Manchester Terrier can be particularly adept due to their strong desire to please and quick learning ability.

For larger breeds like the Leonberger dog, teaching the “place” command can be especially useful given their size and tendency to seek closeness.

Independent breeds like the Lhasa Apso may initially resist the place command, but their intelligence and loyalty make them excellent candidates once they understand the routine. Start with short durations and high-value rewards to overcome their natural stubbornness.

Once your dog masters the “Place” command, consider reinforcing other essential skills such as toilet training. Both commands require consistency and positive reinforcement to ensure your dog develops good habits.

Teaching a German Spitz to stay in place can be particularly rewarding given their natural alertness and intelligence. Discover more about this ancient breed in our comprehensive guide to the German Spitz.

The place command is particularly effective with breeds like the Shetland Sheepdog, who are quick learners and enjoy having a designated spot to relax.

For breeds like the Miniature Bull Terrier, teaching the place command can be particularly helpful given their tendency to bounce off furniture with boundless energy.

For breeds with a strong independent streak, such as the Cairn Terrier, the place command can be particularly challenging but rewarding to teach.

Teaching the place command can be particularly challenging for scent-driven breeds like the Bloodhound, whose focus is often pulled by intriguing smells in their environment.

Breeds with lower energy levels, such as the charming Pug, often take to the ‘place’ command quickly, turning their bed into a permanent nap station with minimal encouragement.

Teaching the place command can be especially useful for breeds like the Basset Fauve de Bretagne, who may need a designated spot to settle down after a long day of following scents.

The ‘place’ command is especially useful for energetic breeds like the Australian Shepherd, helping them channel their boundless energy into focused calmness.

Smaller breeds like the expressive Boston Terrier often take to ‘place’ training quickly, as they naturally enjoy having a designated cozy spot to observe household activity from.

For breeds like the Bull Terrier, mastering the ‘place’ command can be especially helpful given their energetic nature and strong-willed personality.

For breeds like the English Bulldog, mastering the place command can be especially beneficial, as they often prefer lounging in a comfortable spot over more active pursuits.

Teaching the place command is especially effective for breeds like the British Bulldog, whose natural inclination to lounge makes them quick learners when it comes to settling on a designated spot.

The best part is that place is genuinely easy to teach, works for puppies and adult dogs alike, and transfers to almost any situation. Take the mat to a café patio, a mate’s barbecue, or a vet waiting room, and your dog already knows what to do. This guide walks through the full training process, the gear that works best, and how to use place in the real-world situations Australian dog owners actually deal with.

If you’re working with a breed like the Italian Greyhound, you’ll find they often take to the ‘place’ command with ease, especially if their designated spot is cozy and warm — just how they like it.

For breeds like the Cane Corso, mastering the “place” command is especially important due to their natural guarding instincts and size. Teaching them to stay calmly in a designated spot can help manage their protective tendencies and ensure they remain well-behaved in various situations.

Lure your dog onto a mat or bed with a high-value treat. Mark the moment all four paws land on the surface. Add the cue word (“place” or “bed”) once the dog is offering the behaviour reliably. Build duration in small increments before adding distance and distractions. Use a release word like “free” or “okay” every time. Most dogs learn the basics within one to two weeks of short daily sessions.

The “place” command works wonders for energetic small breeds — just ask any owner of a Brussels Griffon, who’ll confirm these tiny dogs often need reminders to settle.

What Is the Place Command?

The place command (also called “go to bed,” “mat,” or “settle”) tells a dog to go to a defined spot and remain there in a relaxed position — sit or down — until you give a release cue. The defined spot is the key difference between place and a general stay. With place, the dog has clear physical boundaries: the edges of a bed, mat, or cot. Dogs find this easier to understand than an invisible boundary in the middle of a room. rewarding calm behavior

Place is not the same as crate training, though the two skills complement each other. A crate is enclosed. A place is open. The dog is visible, part of the room, but out of the way and settled. Think of it as giving your dog a job to do: “Park yourself here and chill out until I say otherwise.”

Why Every Dog Should Know Place

Guest arrivals. Instead of your dog launching at the front door every time the bell rings, you send them to place. The door opens, the guest walks in, and the dog stays on the mat. This alone makes the command worth the training time. basic commands every dog should know

Mealtimes. A dog parked on a bed across the kitchen isn’t hovering under the table or counter-surfing. Families with kids particularly benefit from this — fewer collisions between dogs and toddlers carrying food.

Working from home. If you’re on a video call and the dog is pestering you with a tennis ball, a quick “place” solves it without drama. teaching leave it and drop it

Cafés and pub patios. Australia’s dog-friendly dining culture means a lot of dogs end up at outdoor tables. A dog that knows place on a portable mat will settle under the table instead of lunging at every passing pram.

Vet visits and travel. Bringing a familiar mat to a vet waiting room or a holiday rental gives the dog a known anchor point. It reduces anxiety in unfamiliar environments because the dog associates the mat with calm, rewarding behaviour.

What You Need for Place Training

A defined surface. An elevated cot, a flat dog bed, a yoga mat, or even a folded bath towel. Elevated cots work especially well because the raised edges give the dog a clear sense of on versus off. Brands like the Fido Classic and the TuffMat elevated bed are popular choices in Australia. If you want something portable for outings, a roll-up travel mat or a cut-to-size yoga mat does the job.

High-value treats. Diced chicken, cheese cubes, Zeal liver treats, or whatever your dog finds genuinely exciting. Place training involves a lot of repetitions, so use small pieces to avoid overfeeding.

A marker. A clicker or a verbal marker like “yes!” to pinpoint the exact moment the dog does the right thing.

A release word. Pick one and stick with it: “free,” “okay,” “break,” or “off you go.” The release word is just as important as the place cue itself, because it tells the dog when they’re allowed to leave. Without it, the dog never really learns to stay put — they just guess when it’s over.

How to Teach Place: Step by Step

This method uses luring and shaping together. It works for puppies from about 10 weeks and adult dogs of any age. Keep sessions short — five to ten minutes is plenty.

Step 1: Build Interest in the Mat

1. Put the mat on the floor and let the dog investigate. Don’t say anything yet. Just watch. The moment the dog shows any interest — a sniff, a paw on the edge, a glance — mark it (“yes!”) and drop a treat onto the mat. Repeat until the dog is deliberately stepping onto the surface to earn the reward. A Cavoodle named Biscuit figured this out in about six repetitions. She was practically tap-dancing on the mat trying to make the clicker go off.

Step 2: Get All Four Paws On

1. Raise the bar slightly. Only mark and treat when all four paws are on the mat. If the dog puts three paws on and one off, wait. Most dogs will shift their weight and land that last paw within a few seconds. Mark and reward the instant it happens. If you’re using a lure, hold the treat over the centre of the mat and let the dog follow it on. Place the treat on the mat itself to reinforce the connection between the surface and the reward.

Step 3: Add the Cue Word

1. Say “place” (or “bed”) just as the dog steps onto the mat. Timing matters here. You want the word to land at the moment the dog is committed to the behaviour, not before. After a few sessions of this, the dog starts linking the word to the action. Test it by saying the cue when the dog is a step or two away from the mat. If they move to it, the association is forming.

Step 4: Add the Down-Stay

1. Once the dog is going to the mat reliably, add a settle. Cue “place,” wait for the dog to arrive, then ask for a down (either with a verbal cue or a hand signal). Mark and reward the down. After several repetitions, many dogs start offering the down automatically when they reach the mat, without needing a separate cue. That’s the goal. At this point, also introduce the release word. Say “free” (or your chosen word), toss a treat off the mat to encourage the dog to move, and let them go. This teaches the dog that they stay on the mat until the release, not until they feel like leaving.

Step 5: Build Duration

1. Gradually increase how long the dog stays on the mat. Start with three seconds. Then five. Then ten. Then thirty. Reward while the dog is still on the mat, not after they leave. If the dog gets up before the release word, calmly guide them back, reset, and try a shorter duration. Don’t push too fast. A dog that can hold a relaxed two-minute place after a week of training is doing brilliantly.

Step 6: Add Distance

1. Take one step away from the mat after cueing place. If the dog holds, mark and return to reward. Then two steps, three steps, eventually across the room. If the dog breaks, you’ve gone too far too fast. Drop back to a distance where they succeed and build up again. The dog needs to learn that you moving away doesn’t mean the exercise is over.

Step 7: Add Real-World Distractions

1. Practise with everyday disruptions. Someone walks through the room. The doorbell rings. You pick up your keys. The kettle boils. Each distraction is a new challenge, and the dog might break at first. That’s fine — reset and try again. The goal is a dog that stays on the mat through normal household activity, not one that only holds place in a silent, empty room.

Using Place in Australian Everyday Life

Once the basics are solid at home, the real value of place shows up in the situations Australian dog owners navigate regularly.

Café outings. Pack a roll-up mat in your bag. When you sit down, lay it under the table, cue place, and reward your dog for settling. Most dog-friendly cafés in Australia expect dogs to be calm and contained. A dog that can hold place for the length of a flat white and a toastie is a dog that gets invited back.

Body corporate and apartment living. For owners in apartments or townhouses with shared corridors, place training reduces noise complaints. Instead of the dog barking at every sound in the hallway, they’re on the mat with a chew, practising calm behaviour.

Summer heat management. During hot months (December through February), elevated cots let air circulate underneath, keeping the dog cooler than a flat bed on tiles. Set up the place cot in the shadiest part of the house and use it as a go-to settling spot during the hottest part of the day.

Vet waiting rooms. A familiar mat in a stressful environment gives the dog something to focus on. Cue place, reward for settling, and the dog has a known routine even when the surroundings are unfamiliar. This is especially useful for anxious dogs who tend to pace or pant at the vet.

Troubleshooting Common Place Problems

The dog gets up before the release. You’re asking for too much duration too soon. Shorten the time and reward more frequently while the dog is on the mat. Build back up slowly. Think of it like holding a plank — you don’t go from zero to three minutes on day one.

The dog goes to the mat but won’t lie down. That’s okay at first. Reward the standing or sitting position, and shape towards the down gradually. Some dogs need a separate refresher on the down cue before they’ll offer it on the mat.

The dog avoids the mat entirely. The surface might be slippery, wobbly, or unfamiliar. If you’re using an elevated cot, try a flat mat first. Some dogs are nervous about elevated surfaces and need a gentler introduction. Walk over the mat yourself, scatter treats across it, and let the dog approach at their own pace.

Place works at home but falls apart outside. Dogs don’t generalise well. A dog that holds place perfectly in the lounge room might struggle on the same mat at a park. You need to re-teach the behaviour in each new environment, starting with short durations and high reward rates, then building up just like you did indoors.

The dog treats place as punishment. If you only ever send the dog to place when you’re annoyed, the mat becomes a negative space. Balance this by cueing place during neutral or positive moments too — and by making the mat a place where good things happen (chews, Kongs, treats). The dog should trot to the mat happily, not slink there with a tucked tail.

Place vs Stay vs Crate: What’s the Difference?

Place sends the dog to a specific surface and asks them to remain there until released. The dog can shift position (sit, down, roll onto a hip) as long as they stay on the mat.

Stay freezes the dog in position wherever they are. No defined boundary. The dog holds whatever posture you cued (sit-stay, down-stay) without a specific surface to anchor to.

Crate puts the dog in an enclosed space. Useful for unsupervised alone time, car travel, and overnight settling. Place is the open-plan version — the dog is with you in the room, just not on top of you.

All three skills are worth teaching. They serve different purposes and complement each other.

---

When to Get Professional Help

If your dog shows signs of anxiety around the mat (panting, whale eye, refusing to approach), or if place training triggers guarding behaviour, it’s worth consulting a qualified reward-based trainer. Some dogs, particularly rescues with unknown histories, have negative associations with being sent to a specific spot. A trainer can help work through those issues safely.

Your vet clinic can usually recommend a trainer, and many obedience clubs across Australia include settle exercises as part of their basic manners courses.

---

Frequently Asked Questions