Most dogs that suddenly smell like a fish market started the same way – a quick scoot across the living-room rug, a damp patch on the doona, and an owner sniffing the air wondering what just happened. That sour, metallic stink almost always comes from the anal glands, not the coat. And the fix is rarely the bath you’re about to give – it’s the order you do things in, and knowing when the smell is a hygiene job and when it’s a vet job.
Dog gland smell almost always comes from the anal sacs – two small scent glands beside the anus. Spot-bathe the rear with warm water and a gentle dog shampoo, add fibre to the diet, keep the bum-fur trimmed, and wipe with a dog-safe cleaner between baths. If the smell is constant, the dog is scooting, or there’s swelling or blood, book a vet – never express the glands yourself as a routine.
Why That Fishy Smell Shows Up at All
Every dog has two anal sacs sitting at the 4 and 8 o’clock positions of the anus. They produce an oily, brown secretion that’s used for scent-marking – and on a healthy dog, those sacs empty a tiny bit each time the dog poos. Problems start when the stool isn’t firm enough to press them empty, when the dog gets startled (a sudden burst of secretion is normal but stinks), or when the sacs become impacted. Australian vet clinics, including Mornington Veterinary Clinic, list small breeds, overweight dogs and dogs on softer diets as the most common patients. Toy breeds like cavoodles and shih tzus turn up more often than most – which is partly why we’ve covered it as a follow-up to our cavoodle guide.
What Gland Smell Actually Smells Like (and What It Isn’t)
Gland secretion is sharp, metallic, and bin-juice fishy. It sticks to fur and furniture and isn’t fixed by air freshener. If the smell is concentrated around the bum, comes in short bursts, and leaves a brown smear on light fabric, it’s the glands. If it’s the whole coat and worse after a swim, it’s usually skin yeast – check our notes on the wider category at bathing and coat care.
How to Get the Smell Out at Home (Step by Step)
Before you reach for the shampoo, do these in order. Most owners do step 3 first, get nowhere, and try a stronger shampoo. That’s the wrong fix.
Trim the bum-fur first (5 minutes). Long fur around the anus catches the gland secretion and stops it drying off. Use blunt-tipped grooming scissors and a slicker brush – not clippers if you’ve never used them. Trim the fur on the underside of the tail and around the anus to about 1cm. On double-coated breeds, just trim the longest strands rather than the whole patch. This single step does more for the smell than any shampoo.
Spot-bathe the rear, not the whole dog (10 to 15 minutes). Stand the dog in the laundry tub or shower with warm water – around 36°C, never hot. Wet only the back end, lather a gentle dog shampoo (Aristopet, Rufus & Coco, or Fido’s, all available at Petbarn and PETstock) into the bum-fur, leave it for two minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Towel-dry. We avoid full baths for this because the smell is local, and over-washing strips the skin barrier.
Wipe with a dog-safe cleaner between baths (1 minute). Dog-safe wipes (PAW by Blackmores, or unscented baby wipes labelled alcohol-free in a pinch) handle the day-to-day smear. Lift the tail, wipe once outward from the anus, and bin the wipe. Never use human disinfectant wipes or essential-oil sprays near the anus – the skin there is thinner than the rest of the dog and reacts badly.
Add fibre to the diet (ongoing). Firmer stools press the glands empty during a normal poo. Plain tinned pumpkin, a tablespoon of cooked oatmeal, or a vet-recommended psyllium husk supplement works for most dogs. Aim for one to two teaspoons per 10kg of dog, mixed into the regular meal. Give it a fortnight before judging the result.
Clean the soft furnishings (15 minutes). If the dog has dragged its bum across the rug, the smell will linger no matter how clean the dog is. Use an enzymatic pet cleaner (Urine Off, Bondi Wash) on rugs, dog beds and the car boot. Soap and water won’t break the secretion down – enzymes will.
Watch for repeat episodes. One smelly burst after a fright is fine. Three in a fortnight isn’t. If it’s happening weekly, the glands aren’t emptying naturally and the dog needs a professional check.
Common Mistakes Owners Make
Squeezing the glands at home after watching a YouTube video. Done wrong, you bruise the sac wall, push secretion into the surrounding tissue, and turn a smell problem into an abscess. Leave external expression to a vet or experienced groomer.
Using human shampoo or baby wash. The pH is wrong for dog skin and you’ll strip the protective oils, making the smell come back faster and itchier than before.
Skipping the fur trim and going straight to the bath. Wet fur traps the secretion against the skin – the bath actually spreads it.
Spraying perfume, deodoriser or essential-oil mist near the bum. The skin there is sensitive, and tea tree oil in undiluted form is toxic to dogs.
Ignoring scooting because the dog ‘seems fine’. It’s the classic early sign that the glands aren’t emptying – not a behaviour quirk.
The Australian Bit (Climate, Groomers, Costs)
Two things make AU gland smell linger longer than the US blogs admit. First, summer humidity – especially in south-east Queensland and the Top End – stops fur drying properly, which keeps the secretion damp and active on the coat. After a swim at the dog park or a wet beach walk, towel the bum first, not last. Second, the AU groomer market handles this well if you ask. Most mobile groomers and salons trained through the Pet Industry Association of Australia include external gland expression as part of a standard groom on request – it’s usually $10 to $20 on top of the bath. A full groom in 2026 sits around $80 to $120 in metro AU for a small breed, $120 to $200 for a doodle or long-coat. If you’d rather have a vet do it (recommended for nervy or first-time dogs), a vet nurse visit for gland expression runs $35 to $80 in most clinics.
When to Stop Bathing and Call a Vet
Some red flags mean the smell is the symptom, not the problem. Book a vet, not a groom, if you see any of these:
Blood, pus or a yellow-brown discharge under the tail.
Swelling or a lump beside the anus – often warm to touch.
Persistent scooting that doesn’t settle after a fortnight of fibre and trimming.
The dog can’t sit comfortably, or yelps when sitting down.
A foul smell that’s gotten stronger over a few days rather than steady – often a sign of an abscess or infection.
The Australian Veterinary Association treats recurrent anal-sac disease as a medical issue, not a grooming one – and chronic cases sometimes need diet review or, rarely, sacculectomy. That’s worth saying because most online advice frames the smell as a hygiene failure on the owner’s part. It isn’t.
Trim the fur before the bath – every time – and keep a packet of dog wipes by the back door for after walks. Most owners who do that quietly stop noticing the problem within a month.
FAQ
How do I make my dog’s anal glands smell better?
Trim the fur around the anus to 1cm, spot-bathe the rear with a gentle dog shampoo, and wipe with dog-safe wipes between baths. Adding fibre (like plain pumpkin) to the diet helps produce firmer stools that naturally express the glands.
Will my dog’s gland smell go away on its own?
A single smelly episode after a fright might resolve. If the smell is constant or the dog is scooting, it won’t go away without intervention. The glands are likely impacted and need professional attention.
Can I express my dog’s anal glands at home?
No. External expression should be done by a vet or experienced groomer. Doing it yourself risks bruising the sac, pushing secretion into surrounding tissue, and causing an abscess.
What food helps express dog glands naturally?
Foods that add bulk and fibre create firmer stools. Plain tinned pumpkin, cooked oatmeal, or a vet-recommended psyllium husk supplement are good options. Aim for 1-2 teaspoons per 10kg of body weight, mixed into meals.
Are some breeds more prone to gland smell?
Yes. Small and toy breeds (like Cavoodles, Shih Tzus, Chihuahuas) are more prone, as are overweight dogs and those on soft diets. Their smaller anatomy and stool consistency make natural expression less effective.
Mornington Veterinary Clinic – used for the anatomy of the anal sacs and the most common AU patient profile (small breeds, overweight dogs, dogs on softer diets).
Pet Industry Association of Australia (PIAA) – used for AU groomer accreditation context and the typical inclusion of external gland expression in standard grooms.
Australian Veterinary Association – used as the AU veterinary authority for the framing of recurrent anal-sac disease as a medical (not grooming) issue.
My Vet Animal Hospital – used for symptom thresholds (scooting, licking, leaking, swelling) that warrant a vet visit.