There are two kinds of double-coat owners in Australia – the ones who start brushing in early August, and the ones who spend October vacuuming a second dog off the couch. Shedding season isn’t a vague nuisance that arrives ‘sometime in spring’. It’s a four to six week window, driven by daylight, and you can either work with it or be buried by it.
Most double-coated dogs in Australia ‘blow’ their winter undercoat across September to November, with a smaller second shed in March to May. The fix is daily brushing with an undercoat rake for four to six weeks, a warm bath partway through, and a force-dry to clear loose fur. Never shave a double-coated dog – it doesn’t reduce shedding and can permanently damage the coat.
Shedding season usually catches first-time owners off guard, especially in the southern states where winters are colder and the undercoat builds up properly. Done well, a few weeks of consistent brushing cuts loose fur indoors by a noticeable margin and keeps the coat healthy. Done badly – or skipped – it ends in matts, hot spots and a stressful ‘emergency strip’ with a low-maintenance breed isn’t guaranteed protection either. Most dogs settle into the routine after two or three sessions; a few never quite do.
When dog shedding season actually happens in Australia
Dog shedding follows daylight, not temperature alone. As days lengthen heading into spring, the body releases the dense winter undercoat to prep for warmer months – a process called the ‘coat blow’. In the southern hemisphere, that hits hardest in September to November, with a smaller second shed in March to May as the summer coat turns over for winter regrowth.
The intensity changes with where you live. A border collie in Melbourne or Hobart usually grows a denser winter undercoat than the same breed in Brisbane, so the spring blow looks more dramatic. Dogs that live mostly indoors under artificial light and air-conditioning often lose the strong seasonal rhythm and shed lightly year-round instead. That’s normal – just don’t mistake it for a problem.
What’s actually happening under the coat
Double-coated breeds have two distinct layers. The top coat – the guard hairs – sits flat against the body and sheds water. The undercoat is the soft, dense layer underneath, and it’s the layer doing the seasonal work. In spring, photoperiod shifts trigger the undercoat hairs to release in clumps, opening the coat so air can move and the dog can cool.
Single-coated breeds like poodles, maltese and bichons don’t go through this – they shed continually at a low level, which is why people call them ‘low-shedding’. Curly-coat crosses like the cavoodle sit somewhere in between, with the loose fur often trapping in the coat rather than dropping out, which is why brushing them through spring is non-negotiable.
Breeds that feel shedding season hardest
The breeds that ‘blow coat’ most dramatically in AU are the dense double coats built for colder climates – huskies, malamutes, samoyeds, Akitas and chows. Working breeds like the German Shepherd, golden retriever, labrador, border collie and corgi are close behind. Australian breeds aren’t immune either – kelpies, cattle dogs and the rough-coated old Aussies all drop their undercoat through spring.
If you’ve got a Briard or other long-double, the timing is roughly the same but the volume is staggering. Single-coats (maltese, shih tzu, poodle, bichon) won’t ‘blow’ as such, but they still need their regular brushing schedule held through spring or the loose hair tangles into matts.
How to manage the blow at home
The order of operations matters more than the kit you buy. Brush first, bathe second, dry properly, finish with a comb-through. Allow 10 to 20 minutes per session for a medium dog through the peak window.
- Pick the right tool first. For double coats, you want an undercoat rake (a Furminator or Mars Coat King) plus a slicker brush for finishing. Bristle and pin brushes won’t reach the undercoat at all. For a stubborn coat, a wide-toothed comb is the quiet hero of the kit.
- Brush in narrow strips, with the coat. Work nose to tail, lifting the topcoat as you go so the rake catches the undercoat underneath (this is the bit most owners skip). Stop if the dog flinches – you’re probably hitting skin, not coat. Don’t force matted patches; clip them out or book a groomer.
- Bathe once the bulk is out. A warm bath at body temperature (never hot) with a gentle, soap-free dog shampoo loosens the rest of the undercoat. Don’t use human shampoo, conditioner or baby wash – the pH is wrong and it strips the skin barrier.
- Dry properly. A high-velocity dryer on low heat pushes loose fur out of the coat faster than any brush. Towel-only drying is fine if you don’t have one, just slower – and a damp double coat trapped against the skin in humid weather is how hot spots start.
- Finish with a wide-toothed comb. It catches any undercoat the rake missed and lays the guard hairs flat. Repeat every second or third day through the peak window, then drop back to weekly once the volume eases.
The mistakes that turn shedding season into a vet visit
Most of these we’ve seen more than once. A couple we’ve made ourselves.
- Shaving the double coat to ‘cool the dog’. It doesn’t cool them – the undercoat insulates against heat and cold both ways. Shaving can also trigger post-clipping alopecia, where the coat grows back patchy or never properly.
- Skipping brushing for three weeks because the weather is hot. Loose undercoat traps moisture against the skin. In humid QLD or northern NSW that’s how owners discover hot spots.
- Using a Furminator like a paintbrush. Three or four passes per spot, max. Beyond that you’re stripping topcoat and damaging the guard hairs.
- Bathing before brushing. Wet undercoat shrinks and locks any loose hair into a felted mat. Always brush dry coat first.
- Treating the spring shed as a once-off bath. It’s a four to six week project, not a single Saturday morning.
- Using human shampoo because you ran out. Even baby shampoo is the wrong pH – it dries the skin barrier and makes the shed worse.
- Waiting it out with a heavily matted golden retriever. Once the matts are tight to the skin, brushing through them hurts. That’s a groomer or vet call, not a YouTube tutorial.
Why Australian climate makes spring shedding bite harder
Australian climate adds a layer most overseas blogs miss. In a QLD or NT summer, humidity sits high and pavement temperatures climb past 50°C by 11am. A coat full of loose undercoat traps moisture and heat against the skin, which is the textbook recipe for a hot spot – a raw, weeping patch of inflamed skin that flares within hours. Spring brushing isn’t just cosmetic. It’s the cheapest hot-spot prevention you’ll do all year.
Coastal dogs get a second wrinkle. Sand and salt water work into the undercoat and irritate the skin if it’s not rinsed properly. A 60-second fresh-water rinse after a beach trip during shedding season stops a fortnight of itching.
When shedding becomes a vet issue
Most shedding is fine. These signs aren’t.
- Bald patches that appear in days rather than weeks – especially symmetrical patches on the flanks, which can flag a hormonal problem like thyroid disease or Cushing’s.
- A foul or yeasty smell from the coat or skin.
- Broken or weeping skin under the fur, or fur that comes out in small tufts with skin attached.
- Sudden intense itching, especially around the rump or base of the tail – often flea allergy dermatitis (stay on top of parasite prevention year-round in AU; flag this as a future internal link target if available).
- A coat that has gone dull and brittle alongside lethargy or appetite changes.
Most cases are skin or parasites and clear up with treatment. The AVA small animal group is clear that early intervention on companion-animal skin disease is the difference between a $90 consult and a $400 course – don’t sit on it for three weeks.
What professional help costs in Australia (2026)
A salon de-shedding treatment for a medium double-coat sits around $80 to $130 in metro AU, more for big breeds or matted dogs. Mobile groomers run higher – usually $100 to $160 for the same job – because you’re paying for the van and the door-to-door convenience. House-call groomers (no van, you provide the bath) sit in between. Smaller regional towns trend $20 to $40 lower across the board.
One professional session per blow and DIY in between is a reasonable plan for most owners. Look for a groomer who’s a member of the Pet Industry Association of Australia (PIAA) – it’s not legally required, but it’s the cleanest accreditation signal an owner has to go on.
FAQ
How long does dog shedding season last in Australia?
The main spring shedding season typically lasts four to six weeks, peaking from September to November. A smaller, second shed occurs in autumn (March to May) as the summer coat is replaced by the winter undercoat. The exact timing and intensity depend on your location and the dog’s breed and lifestyle.
Does shaving my dog reduce shedding?
No. Shaving a double-coated dog does not reduce shedding and can cause serious harm. The undercoat will still shed, but the shorter, blunt hairs become more noticeable. Shaving can also lead to post-clipping alopecia (permanent coat damage), sunburn, and impaired temperature regulation. Never shave a double-coated breed.
Why is my indoor dog shedding all year instead of seasonally?
This is normal for dogs living primarily indoors. Artificial lighting and consistent air-conditioning disrupt the natural photoperiod cues that trigger a seasonal coat blow. These dogs shed a small amount continuously rather than in a dramatic seasonal burst. It’s not a health concern, but regular brushing is still essential to prevent matting.
Can I use a Furminator on every brush session?
Use an undercoat rake like a Furminator sparingly. Three to four passes over the same spot is enough to remove loose undercoat. Overuse can strip and damage the protective topcoat (guard hairs). During peak shedding, use it every second or third day, not daily, and always finish with a slicker brush or wide-toothed comb.
When should I see a vet instead of a groomer?
See a vet if you notice: sudden bald patches, a foul skin odour, broken or weeping skin, intense itching, or a brittle coat paired with lethargy. These can indicate parasites, allergies, hormonal issues (like thyroid disease), or skin infections. A groomer handles coat maintenance; a vet diagnoses and treats underlying medical conditions.
The dogs that come through spring looking sharp aren’t the ones whose owners bought a $400 grooming kit. They’re the ones whose owners brushed for 15 minutes, three times a week, for six weeks – then put the rake away until autumn.
Pet Industry Association of Australia – piaa.org.au/why-regular-grooming-socialisation-and-coat-care-matter-for-your-dog – Used for grooming-as-welfare framing and the PIAA accreditation reference.
Petstock (Stephanie Goodwin, AU Grooming Specialist) – petstock.com.au/blog/articles/dog-shedding-guide-and-tips – Used for the post-clipping alopecia warning and the double-coat blow definition.
Australian Veterinary Association – Small Animal Group Resources – ava.com.au/about-us/ava-groups/small-animal/resources/ – Used for the veterinary position on companion-animal skin and coat care.