Dog Chewing Everything? How to Redirect the Behaviour

Chewed shoes, shredded couch cushions, and a TV remote that no longer works. If any of that sounds familiar, you are not alone. Destructive chewing is one of the top behaviour complaints among Australian dog owners, and it is one of the most misunderstood.

Here is the part that surprises most people: chewing is normal. Dogs are wired to chew. It keeps their jaws strong, their teeth clean, and their brains occupied. The problem is not the chewing itself. The problem is that the dog has not learned what to chew. Fix that, and the couch is safe.

Dogs chew because of boredom, teething, anxiety, or lack of appropriate outlets. The fix is a combination of management (dog-proofing the house), redirection (providing the right chew items), exercise, and teaching the dog what is off-limits. Punishment after the fact does not work and makes things worse. Most chewing problems resolve within a few weeks of consistent effort.

Why Do Dogs Chew Everything?

Understanding the reason behind the chewing is the first step to stopping it. Dogs do not chew out of spite or revenge. They chew because something in their world is driving the behaviour, and figuring out the trigger changes the approach entirely.

Teething

Puppies between three and six months old are cutting adult teeth, and their gums are sore. Chewing provides relief, exactly the way a teething ring works for a human baby. This phase is temporary but intense, and puppies will chew anything within reach if better options are not provided. Most puppies move past the worst of the teething discomfort by around seven months, once the adult teeth are fully in.

Boredom and Under-Stimulation

A bored dog is a destructive dog. Dogs that do not get enough physical exercise or mental stimulation will find their own entertainment, and that usually involves chewing whatever is available. This is especially common in high-energy breeds like Kelpies, Border Collies, and Australian Cattle Dogs, but any dog left alone for long stretches with nothing to do will eventually turn to the furniture.

A thirty-minute walk before work is a start, but for many dogs it is not enough. Adding a puzzle feeder, a stuffed Kong, or a scatter-feed session in the garden can make a significant difference to how the dog behaves during the hours you are away.

Separation Anxiety

Dogs that chew only when left alone, particularly around exit points like doors, window frames, and skirting boards, may be dealing with separation anxiety. This is not boredom chewing. This is a panic response. The destruction is typically focused, frantic, and often accompanied by other signs: barking, pacing, drooling, or toileting inside the house despite being fully house-trained.

Separation anxiety requires a different approach from standard chewing. It is a welfare issue, not a training failure, and usually needs the support of a veterinary behaviourist or an experienced force-free trainer. In severe cases, medication prescribed by a vet can help take the edge off while the behaviour modification work is underway.

Attention-Seeking

Some dogs learn that grabbing a shoe or a cushion is the fastest way to get a reaction. The owner jumps up, chases the dog, shouts, and the dog gets exactly what it wanted: engagement. Even negative attention is still attention. If the chewing stops the moment you look at the dog or start interacting, attention-seeking is likely the driver.

Hunger or Dietary Issues

Dogs on calorie-restricted diets or those burning more energy than their food provides may chew in search of extra calories. This type of chewing tends to target items that smell like food: plastic containers, bin lids, kitchen towels, and anything with a food residue. If the chewing seems food-directed, a conversation with the vet about the dog’s diet and feeding schedule is worth having.

Pain or Medical Issues

Dental pain, gastrointestinal discomfort, or oral growths can all trigger chewing in adult dogs that have never been destructive before. A dog that suddenly starts chewing at age five or six, with no change in routine, should see a vet before any behaviour modification begins. The chewing may be a symptom, not the problem.

Mistakes That Make Chewing Worse

Punishing after the fact. Coming home to a chewed shoe and scolding the dog teaches the dog nothing about the shoe. Dogs do not connect a past action with a delayed consequence. What the dog learns instead is that the owner arriving home sometimes means bad things happen. This creates anxiety, which often leads to more chewing.

Giving old shoes or clothes as toys. A dog cannot tell the difference between an old sneaker you gave permission to chew and the brand-new pair by the front door. From the dog’s perspective, shoes are shoes. If you want the dog to leave footwear alone, footwear should never be offered as a chew item.

Chasing the dog to retrieve an item. This turns the chewing into a game. The dog grabs the remote, the owner leaps off the couch, and now there is a fun chase happening. The dog learns that picking up forbidden items leads to an exciting interaction. Instead of chasing, teach a reliable “drop” or swap the item calmly for something better.

Removing all chew outlets. Taking away every toy and bone in an attempt to stop chewing is like removing every fork and expecting someone to stop eating. Dogs need to chew. The solution is providing the right things to chew, not eliminating chewing entirely.

How to Redirect Your Dog’s Chewing

Effective chewing management combines three things: controlling the environment, providing better alternatives, and teaching the dog what is off-limits. Here is the step-by-step plan.

1. Dog-proof the house. Pick up shoes, close wardrobe doors, move charging cables out of reach, and secure bins with lids. If the dog cannot reach it, the dog cannot chew it. This is not a permanent lifestyle change. It is a temporary management strategy while the training takes effect. Think of it the same way you would baby-proof a house for a toddler.
2. Provide a rotation of appropriate chew items. Dogs get bored with the same toy. Rotate three to four chew options every few days so there is always something interesting. Good options include: a Kong Classic stuffed with peanut butter and frozen, a Benebone or Nylabone for durable gnawing, a natural chew like a dried kangaroo tendon or bully stick, and a puzzle feeder like the Kong Wobbler or a West Paw Toppl. Having variety in texture and challenge keeps the dog engaged and reduces the appeal of the couch cushion.
3. Increase daily exercise and enrichment. A tired dog chews less. The specific amount of exercise depends on the breed, age, and individual dog, but as a rough guide, most adult dogs need at least thirty to sixty minutes of physical activity per day plus some form of mental stimulation. A morning walk followed by a stuffed Kong before you leave for work covers both bases. Scatter feeding kibble across the garden, snuffle mats, and short training sessions all count as enrichment.
4. Supervise or confine. Until the chewing habit is under control, the dog should not have unsupervised access to the entire house. Use baby gates to limit access to one or two dog-proofed rooms, or use a comfortable crate if the dog has been properly crate-trained. A crate should be a positive space, never a punishment. If the dog has not been introduced to a crate before, spend a week or two building a positive association before using it for confinement.
5. Interrupt and redirect. When you catch the dog chewing something off-limits, calmly interrupt with a short sound or a “uh-uh” and immediately offer an appropriate chew item. The moment the dog takes the approved item, praise warmly. The dog is learning: that item = nothing, this item = good things. Timing matters. The redirect needs to happen while the dog is chewing, not five minutes later.
6. Teach a solid “leave it” and “drop” cue. These are two of the most useful cues for managing chewing. “Leave it” teaches the dog to walk away from something before picking it up. “Drop” teaches the dog to release something already in the mouth. Both are trained with high-value treats and positive reinforcement. Start with low-value items and build up to more tempting targets as the dog’s reliability improves.
7. Use deterrent sprays as a backup. Products like Bitter Apple spray or similar taste deterrents can be applied to furniture legs, cables, and other fixed targets. They are not a standalone solution, but they can buy time while the training and management plan takes effect. Test the spray on a small area first to check it does not stain. Reapply every day or two, as the taste fades.

Best Chew Toys and Items for Australian Dogs

Not all chew items are created equal. The right choice depends on the dog’s size, chewing style, and preferences. Here is a practical guide to what works.

Kong Classic. Available in multiple sizes and toughness levels (the black “Extreme” version suits power chewers). Stuff with peanut butter, wet food, or mashed banana and freeze overnight for a long-lasting challenge. Available at most AU pet stores and online retailers.

Natural dried chews. Dried kangaroo tendons, bully sticks, lamb ears, and shark cartilage are all popular in Australia. Look for single-ingredient, Australian-made options from brands like Loyalty Pet Treats or WAG. Natural chews satisfy the urge to gnaw and are digestible, but always supervise to prevent choking on small pieces.

Durable nylon or rubber bones. Benebones (flavoured nylon) and Nylabones suit dogs that like prolonged gnawing sessions. West Paw Zogoflex toys are another good option and come with a durability guarantee. Avoid any toy that splinters, cracks, or can be broken into swallowable pieces.

Puzzle feeders. The Kong Wobbler, West Paw Toppl, and Lickimat Tuff are all excellent for slowing down meals and providing mental stimulation. Feeding a portion of the dog’s daily food through a puzzle feeder rather than a bowl turns mealtime into enrichment and reduces boredom-driven chewing.

What to avoid. Cooked bones (they splinter and can cause internal injuries), rawhide from unknown sources (risk of chemical contamination and blockages), and any toy small enough to be swallowed whole. If a chew item can be compressed to fit entirely inside the dog’s mouth, it is too small.

Managing Chewing in Puppies

Puppy chewing is a temporary phase, but it needs active management to prevent bad habits from becoming permanent. A puppy that learns to chew the table leg at four months will still be chewing table legs at two years if nothing changes.

1. Provide teething-specific items. Frozen washcloths, rubber puppy Kongs, and soft teething rings designed for puppies are all good options during the three-to-six-month teething window. The cold helps numb sore gums.
2. Supervise constantly. If the puppy is out of the crate or pen, someone needs to be watching. This is not about being a helicopter parent. It is about catching the puppy in the act so you can redirect before the habit forms. If you cannot supervise, the puppy goes in a safe, puppy-proofed space with appropriate chew items.
3. Reward chewing the right things. Every time the puppy picks up an approved chew toy, give calm praise or a small treat. The puppy starts to associate those items with positive outcomes. This is more effective than waiting for the puppy to chew the wrong thing and then correcting.
4. Enrol in puppy school. Most Australian vet clinics and training schools run puppy classes for dogs between eight and sixteen weeks. A good puppy school covers basic manners, socialisation, and mouthing or chewing management. Look for classes that use reward-based methods and give each puppy adequate space.

When Chewing Is a Sign of Separation Anxiety

If the destruction only happens when the dog is alone, targets exit points like doors and windows, and is accompanied by other stress signs (barking, pacing, drooling, toileting indoors), the chewing is likely driven by separation anxiety rather than boredom or habit.

This distinction matters because the treatment is different. Standard chewing management (more toys, more exercise) will not fix separation anxiety. The dog needs a structured desensitisation program that gradually builds tolerance to being alone, often with the guidance of a veterinary behaviourist.

A Cavoodle called Milo, adopted during lockdown in Melbourne, destroyed three sets of blinds, two door frames, and a pair of headphones in his first month home alone after his owner returned to the office. The chewing was concentrated around the front door and living room window. A veterinary behaviourist diagnosed separation anxiety and designed a gradual departure training plan. After two months of consistent work, combined with an Adaptil diffuser and a frozen Kong left at each departure, Milo’s destructive episodes dropped from daily to roughly once a fortnight. The owner still uses management (baby gate, dog-proofed room) on days when the routine is disrupted, but the overall trajectory is clear.

Vetwest, an Australian veterinary group, notes that separation anxiety often worsens in winter when dogs are walked less and routines shift. Keeping exercise and enrichment consistent through the cooler months can help prevent setbacks.

When to See a Vet About Chewing

A vet visit is a good idea if any of the following apply: the dog is an adult that has suddenly started destructive chewing with no change in routine, the chewing is focused on unusual items like rocks or fabric (which may indicate a condition called pica), the dog is losing weight despite adequate feeding, there is visible damage to the teeth or gums, or the chewing is accompanied by signs of pain like pawing at the mouth or reluctance to eat hard food.

The vet can rule out dental disease, gastrointestinal issues, and other medical causes before you invest time in behaviour modification. If the chewing is linked to separation anxiety, the vet can also discuss whether medication might support the training plan.

Australian-Specific Considerations

Australian summers can make chewing problems worse. When temperatures push above 35°C, many owners cut back on outdoor exercise, leaving dogs under-stimulated and more likely to chew out of boredom. Indoor enrichment becomes especially valuable during heatwaves: frozen Kongs, ice block treats (freeze stock or diluted bone broth in a container), and indoor scatter feeds all help keep dogs occupied without the heat risk.

In apartments and units governed by body corporate rules, destructive chewing that causes damage to fixtures or fittings can create real problems for renters and owners alike. Preventative management (crating, baby gates, dog-proofing) is worth implementing early, before damage triggers a complaint.

Be cautious with chew items sourced overseas. Rawhide products from some countries have been found to contain chemical residues. Opting for Australian-made natural chews from brands that source and process locally reduces the risk. Check the packaging for an Australian-made label or contact the manufacturer directly if the origin is unclear.

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When to Get Professional Help

If the chewing is persistent despite consistent management and redirection, if it is linked to separation anxiety, or if the dog guards chewed items aggressively, a qualified behaviourist is the next step. In Australia, look for trainers who are members of the Pet Professional Guild Australia (PPGA) or who hold formal qualifications in animal behaviour. The Australian Veterinary Association recommends reward-based training as the preferred approach for all behaviour modification.

An initial behaviour consultation typically costs between $150 and $300 AUD, depending on the practitioner and location. For separation anxiety cases, follow-up sessions over several weeks are usually needed. The investment pays for itself quickly when weighed against the cost of replacing furniture, repairing door frames, and the stress on both the dog and the household.

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Frequently Asked Questions