Picking the right training treat for a puppy sounds simple until you’re standing in the pet aisle at pet store staring at forty different packets, all promising to be the best. Some are the size of a 50-cent coin. Some smell like a factory. Some cost more per gram than the steak in your fridge.
The best puppy training treats in Australia share a few things in common: they’re small enough to eat in a second, soft enough that a 10-week-old mouth can handle them, smelly enough to hold attention during a training session, and made with ingredients that won’t wreck a developing digestive system.
This guide breaks down what to look for, what to avoid, the top Australian-made and Australian-available options for 2026, and how to use treats properly so your puppy learns without becoming a treat-dependent biscuit monster.
The best puppy training treats are small, soft, single-protein, and stinky. Top Australian picks for 2026 include SavourLife Puppy Training Treats, Zeal Venison Puffs, Prime100 Chicken Breast Bites, and diced home-cooked chicken breast. Keep treats under 10% of daily calories, deliver within two seconds of the desired behaviour, and start phasing in praise-only rewards by four to five months.
What Makes a Good Puppy Training Treat?
Not every treat works for training. A dental chew that takes five minutes to demolish is great for keeping a puppy busy, but useless for teaching “sit.” Training treats need specific qualities to do their job properly.
Small
A training treat should be about the size of a pea or a fingernail—roughly 5mm to 10mm. The puppy needs to taste it, register the reward, and refocus on you within a second or two. Anything bigger and the session stalls while the pup chews. During a 10-minute training block, you might deliver 30 to 50 rewards. If each treat is the size of a marble, that’s a meal replacement, not a reinforcement session.
Soft
Crunchy biscuits take longer to eat and can crumble, leaving the puppy sniffing the floor instead of watching you. Soft, moist treats—or freeze-dried options that melt quickly—are faster to consume and easier on puppy teeth that may still be teething. For pups under 12 weeks, soft is especially helpful because their jaws are tiny and their baby teeth are still coming through.
Smelly
Dogs experience the world nose-first. A treat with a strong meat smell cuts through distractions better than a bland biscuit. This is why liver, tripe, and fish-based treats tend to outperform grain-based snacks during training. The smell is what grabs the puppy’s attention from three metres away when you’re working on recall at the park.
Single or Simple Ingredients
Puppy stomachs are still developing, and complex ingredient lists increase the odds of digestive upset or an allergic reaction. Single-protein treats—chicken breast, beef liver, kangaroo lung—give you a clear picture of what’s going in. If the puppy has a bad reaction, you know exactly which protein caused it. This matters more than most new owners realise, especially with breeds prone to food sensitivities like Staffies, French Bulldogs, and West Highland Terriers.
The 10% Rule: How Many Treats Are Too Many?
The World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) and most veterinary nutritionists follow the same guideline: treats and extras should make up no more than 10% of a puppy’s daily calorie intake. The other 90% needs to come from a complete and balanced puppy food.
For a 10-week-old Labrador eating around 800 calories a day, that’s roughly 80 calories from treats. A small piece of cooked chicken breast has about 3 to 5 calories per pea-sized piece, so that budget stretches to 15 to 25 treats per session, which is plenty.
The practical takeaway: use tiny pieces. If a commercial treat is the size of a thumbnail, tear it in half. Or quarters. The puppy doesn’t care about the volume. The puppy cares about the event—something good arrived, training is worth paying attention to.
On heavy training days, reduce the regular meal portion slightly to compensate. Overfeeding treats on top of full meals leads to soft stools, weight gain, and a puppy who turns up its nose at dinner because it’s already full from training rewards.
Best Puppy Training Treats in Australia
These picks are all available in Australian pet stores or online, made with ingredients suitable for puppies, and tested in real training scenarios. No single treat is “the best” for every puppy—dogs have preferences, sensitivities, and varying motivation levels—so having two or three options in the treat pouch keeps things interesting.
SavourLife Puppy Training Treats (Chicken)
An Australian-made standby that shows up in training bags across the country. Pre-cut into small cubes, soft enough for young mouths, and enriched with DHA Gold for brain development. The ingredient list is relatively short: chicken, chickpea and rice flour, tapioca, sweet potato, and a handful of vitamins. The main drawback is that they’re not single-ingredient—there are several components—so they may not suit puppies with known grain or legume sensitivities. Available at Petbarn, Pet Circle, PETstock, and most independent pet shops. SavourLife also donates 50% of profits to pet rescue organisations.
Prime100 Single Protein Treats
Prime100’s range includes chicken breast bites, lamb liver, and kangaroo options—all single protein with no fillers, preservatives, or artificial flavours. They’re a strong choice for puppies with food sensitivities or allergy-prone breeds. The chicken breast bites are soft enough to tear into smaller pieces. The kangaroo option works well as a novel protein for elimination diets. Australian-made and widely stocked at vet clinics and online retailers.
Zeal Venison Puffs or Dried Treats
Zeal is a New Zealand brand that’s well-established in the Australian market. Their freeze-dried and air-dried venison treats are single-ingredient, naturally high in protein, and extremely smelly—which is exactly what you want for training. The puffs are lightweight and can be snapped into tiny pieces. Venison is a novel protein for most puppies, making it a good option for dogs that react to chicken or beef. Stocked at Pet Circle, PETstock, and some specialty stores.
Freeze-Dried Liver (Beef or Lamb)
Freeze-dried liver is the classic high-value training treat for good reason. It’s intensely smelly, easy to break into crumb-sized pieces, and most puppies go absolutely bonkers for it. Love’Em, Frontier Pets, and Loyalty Pet Treats all make Australian-sourced versions. The downside is that liver is rich—too much can cause soft stools, especially in very young puppies. Limit liver to the “big asks” during training: first recall outside, name recognition with distractions, or settling in a new environment.
Bark with Buster Lung Crisps
An Australian-made, award-winning option that’s gaining a loyal following. Their lamb, kangaroo, and beef lung crisps are single-ingredient, naturally low in fat, and shatter easily into training-sized bits. Lung treats are lighter in smell than liver but still plenty motivating for most puppies. The low-fat profile makes them suitable for more frequent use without worrying about calorie overload. Available direct from their website and through selected stockists.
DIY: Diced Cooked Chicken Breast
Here’s the thing trainers won’t tell you because they’re not trying to sell you anything: plain boiled or baked chicken breast, diced into pea-sized pieces, is one of the most effective training treats you can use. It’s cheap, single-ingredient, puppy-safe from 8 weeks, and almost universally loved. Cook a breast with no seasoning, no oil, no garlic. Let it cool, dice it small, and store in the fridge for up to three days or freeze in portions. For a puppy that’s indifferent to commercial treats, fresh chicken almost always gets a response.
A Cavoodle called Beans was completely uninterested in packaged treats at 12 weeks. Wouldn’t sit, wouldn’t come, barely looked at the training pouch. The owner switched to diced chicken breast and within one session, Beans was offering a sit before being asked. The difference wasn’t the training method—it was the reward value.
Treats to Avoid for Puppies
Not everything marketed as a “dog treat” belongs in a puppy’s training pouch. Some common options cause more problems than they solve.
Large crunchy biscuits. Milk-Bones, Schmackos, and similar supermarket staples are too big, too hard, and too calorie-dense for training. By the time a puppy has chewed through one, the connection between the behaviour and the reward is long gone.
Treats with long ingredient lists. If the label reads like a chemistry textbook—multiple grains, added sugars, artificial colours, unnamed “meat by-products”—put it back. A puppy’s gut doesn’t need that complexity, and there’s no training advantage to fancy ingredients. Simpler is better.
Rawhide or hard chews. These are recreational chews, not training treats. They take too long to eat and pose choking risks for young puppies. Rawhide in particular can swell in the stomach and is not recommended by most veterinarians for puppies.
Anything with xylitol. This artificial sweetener is extremely toxic to dogs. It’s uncommon in dog-specific treats but occasionally shows up in “human-grade” snacks repurposed for dogs. Always check the ingredients list, especially with peanut butter—some Australian supermarket brands contain xylitol.
Imported jerky treats of unknown origin. Cheap jerky imported from overseas has been linked to illness in dogs in Australia and internationally. Stick to treats with clear Australian or New Zealand sourcing. If the packet doesn’t say where the ingredients come from, that’s a red flag.
How to Use Treats in Training: The Basics
Having great treats is half the equation. Using them correctly is the other half. Here’s how to get the most out of every reward.
Timing Is Everything
The treat needs to arrive within one to two seconds of the desired behaviour. Not after you’ve fished around in your pocket for ten seconds. Not after you’ve said “good girl” three times. The puppy’s brain links the most recent action to the reward, so if you’re slow, the puppy might think it’s being rewarded for looking away or sniffing the ground. A treat pouch clipped to your waistband makes delivery fast and smooth.
The Australian Veterinary Association’s guidance on reward-based training emphasises that positive reinforcement works because the reward immediately follows the target behaviour, strengthening the association between the action and the positive outcome.
High-Value vs Low-Value
Not all treats carry the same weight in your puppy’s mind. A piece of regular kibble might work for a sit in the quiet lounge room. But for a recall at the dog park with three other puppies running past? That’s a high-value situation, and it calls for high-value currency—liver, chicken, something the puppy would cross a freeway for.
Build a mental ranking of your puppy’s preferences. Most trainers sort treats into three tiers: everyday (kibble, plain biscuits), mid-range (commercial training treats), and jackpot (fresh chicken, liver, cheese). Match the treat level to the difficulty of what you’re asking.
Lure, Then Fade
Treats start as a lure to guide the puppy into position—holding a piece of chicken above the nose to encourage a sit, for example. Once the puppy understands the behaviour, the food lure should be faded out and replaced with a hand signal, then the verbal cue. The treat still arrives as a reward, but it’s no longer visible beforehand. A common mistake is keeping the treat visible in the hand for too long, which trains the puppy to only respond when food is present.
Vary the Reward Schedule
Once a behaviour is reliable, you don’t need to treat every single time. Switch to a variable schedule: reward three out of five reps, then two out of four, then every second one, mixing in verbal praise and a pat between treats. Variable reinforcement actually strengthens behaviour more than constant reinforcement—the puppy keeps trying because the reward might come on this rep. Think of it like a poker machine for dogs, except the outcome is a well-trained companion rather than a gambling problem.
Treat Storage and Hygiene Tips
Australian summers can turn a treat pouch into a biohazard if you’re not careful. Meat-based treats left in a bum bag in 35-degree heat for an afternoon will smell worse than they already do—and not in the way your puppy appreciates.
Store opened packets of commercial treats in the fridge. Most air-dried and freeze-dried treats last two to four weeks once opened if kept cool and dry. Fresh cooked chicken should be used within three days from the fridge or portioned and frozen.
Wash treat pouches weekly. Meat oils and crumbs build up fast and can harbour bacteria. A machine wash on a warm cycle does the job for most fabric pouches. Silicon pouches can go in the dishwasher.
On hot days, bring an insulated lunch bag or a small cooler to outdoor training sessions. This keeps fresh treats safe and stops commercial treats from going soft and slimy in the heat.
DIY Training Treats: Budget-Friendly Recipes
If the treat budget is stacking up, or if your puppy has allergies that rule out most commercial options, homemade treats are a solid alternative.
Boiled Chicken Breast
Boil a chicken breast in plain water for 15 to 20 minutes. Cool, dice into pea-sized pieces, and store in the fridge. This is the cheapest, most reliable training treat available. A single breast yields enough treats for several days.
Oven-Baked Liver Bites
Slice beef or lamb liver thin (about 5mm), lay on a baking tray lined with baking paper, and bake at 120°C for about two hours until dry and firm. Cut into small squares once cooled. These are intensely smelly and most puppies rate them above anything you can buy in a packet. Freeze extras in zip-lock bags.
Sardine and Oat Bites
Mash a tin of sardines in springwater (not oil) with half a cup of rolled oats and one egg. Spread thin on a lined baking tray and bake at 160°C for 20 minutes. Score into small squares before fully cooled. These are rich in omega-3 and most puppies find the fish smell irresistible. Keep refrigerated.
With any homemade treat, avoid onion, garlic, macadamia nuts, grapes, raisins, and xylitol-containing ingredients. When in doubt, check with your vet.
When to Phase Out Treats
The goal of treat-based training is to build behaviours that eventually work without a food reward every time. That transition doesn’t happen overnight, and it shouldn’t happen too early.
For foundation behaviours like sit, drop, and name recognition, most puppies are ready to move to a variable treat schedule by 16 to 20 weeks—once the behaviour is reliable in low-distraction settings. Harder behaviours like recall in high-stimulation environments will need consistent treating for longer, sometimes well past six months.
The phasing process looks like this: first, replace the food lure with a hand signal. Then, start rewarding every second or third correct response instead of every single one. Gradually introduce non-food rewards—a game of tug, a belly rub, excited verbal praise—alongside the treats. Over time, the treats become occasional and the other rewards do most of the reinforcing work.
A Border Collie pup named Radar had nailed a solid recall by five months—in the backyard. At the off-leash beach? Completely different story. The owner kept using high-value liver for beach recalls until Radar was about eight months old, then slowly rotated in a thrown tennis ball as the reward instead. By 10 months, Radar was recalling off-leash at the beach for nothing more than a ball throw and a “good boy.” The treats built the foundation. The ball took over.
Special Considerations for Australian Owners
Hot weather and treat safety. In summer, meat-based treats left in a car or a training bag can spoil within hours. On training days above 30°C, use freeze-dried treats (which handle heat better than moist ones) or carry fresh treats in an insulated pouch.
Novel proteins for allergy-prone breeds. Australia has access to several proteins not commonly available overseas: kangaroo, crocodile, goat, and emu. These novel proteins are useful for puppies on elimination diets or those showing signs of food intolerance to common proteins like chicken and beef. Prime100 and Frontier Pets both offer kangaroo options made locally.
Supermarket vs pet store vs online. Supermarket treat aisles in Australia are dominated by brands like Schmackos and Greenies, which are fine for adult dogs as occasional snacks but not ideal for puppy training. The better options for training—single-protein, soft, small—are more often found at Pet Circle, Petbarn, PETstock, or direct from Australian makers like SavourLife, Bark with Buster, and Farmer Pete’s.
Supporting Australian-made. A growing number of Australian companies make high-quality, locally sourced treats: SavourLife (donates 50% of profits to rescue), Bark with Buster (multi-award winner), Farmer Pete’s (family-run in regional Australia), Loyalty Pet Treats, and Frontier Pets. Buying local supports Australian agriculture, reduces transport footprint, and generally means shorter, more transparent ingredient lists.
When to Get Professional Help
If your puppy shows no interest in any treat—commercial, homemade, or fresh meat—during training, it’s worth a vet check. Low food motivation can sometimes indicate nausea, dental pain, or stress. A qualified reward-based trainer can also help assess whether the issue is the treat itself or the training environment. The Pet Professional Guild Australia directory is a good starting point for finding force-free trainers in your area.
Frequently Asked Questions
What age can puppies start having treats?
Most puppies can have small, soft training treats from around 8 weeks old when they arrive in their new home. Start with tiny amounts and watch for any digestive upset. By 12 weeks, when formal training typically begins, most puppies handle treats without issues.
Are human foods safe as training treats?
Some are. Plain cooked chicken, tiny cubes of cheese, blueberries, and small pieces of carrot are all puppy-safe. Avoid anything with garlic, onion, xylitol, grapes, raisins, chocolate, or macadamia nuts. When in doubt, check with your vet.
How many treats per training session?
There’s no hard number, but a 5 to 10 minute session for a young puppy might involve 20 to 40 tiny treats. Keep pieces pea-sized and factor the calories into the daily food allowance by slightly reducing the next meal.
Can you train a puppy without treats?
Technically, yes—play, praise, and toys can all serve as reinforcers. But for most puppies, especially in the early weeks, food is the fastest and most reliable motivator. Treats make the learning process quicker and clearer, and they can be phased out as behaviours become established.
My puppy spits out commercial treats. What now?
Switch to a higher-value option. Fresh cooked chicken or freeze-dried liver almost always gets a response from treat-sceptical puppies. Some pups simply prefer real meat over processed treats, and that’s fine—it often works out cheaper too.
World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA), “Feeding treats to your dog” — https://wsava.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/Feeding-treats-to-your-dog-v2.pdf — 10% treat guideline, calorie limits, treat selection
Australian Veterinary Association, “Reward-based training: a guide for dog trainers” — https://www.ava.com.au/siteassets/policy-and-advocacy/policies/animal-welfare-principles-and-philosophy/reward-based-training-brochure-web.pdf — positive reinforcement principles, timing of rewards, AVA training position
VCA Animal Hospitals (Canadian Academy of Veterinary Nutrition), “Dog Treats” — https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/dog-treats — 10% calorie rule, treat types, nutritional balance
American Kennel Club, “How Many Treats Can Your Dog Really Have?” — https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/nutrition/how-many-treats-can-dog-have/ — calculating 10% calorie budget, treat portioning
Pet Professional Guild Australia, “Puppy Socialization Position Statement” — https://ppgaustralia.net.au/Library/Position-Statements/PuppySocializationPositionStatement — positive reinforcement, force-free training, toxic food warnings

