Not all dog training methods are equal. Some work. Some don't. Some are actively harmful. If you've spent any time on social media watching trainers yank dogs into position, talk about being the "alpha," or strap on shock collars for basic obedience, you've seen the harmful end of the spectrum — and it's important to know why those methods are outdated.
The RSPCA, the Australian Veterinary Association, and the Pet Professional Guild Australia all recommend the same thing: reward-based positive reinforcement. The evidence is clear — dogs trained with rewards learn faster, retain training longer, show fewer stress behaviours, and have a better relationship with their owners than dogs trained with punishment or force. Research has also shown that aversive methods (choke chains, prong collars, shock collars, leash corrections, intimidation) increase the risk of fear, aggression, and anxiety in dogs. Shock collars are already illegal in several Australian states.
The problem is that dog training in Australia is unregulated. Anyone can call themselves a trainer, regardless of qualifications or methods. That makes it the owner's job to know what to look for — and what to run from. This section helps with both.
Dog Training Methods Compared
| Method | How It Works | Best For | Recommended? | Key Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Positive Reinforcement | Reward the dog immediately after it performs the behaviour you want. Treats, praise, toys or play. The dog repeats behaviours that earn rewards and stops behaviours that don't. | Everything — basic obedience, behaviour modification, puppy training, advanced skills. Works for all breeds, ages and temperaments. | Recommended | Endorsed by the RSPCA, AVA, and every major animal welfare body in Australia. Research consistently shows it produces better welfare outcomes and more reliable training than any other method. |
| Clicker Training | A clicker (small device that makes a sharp "click" sound) marks the exact moment the dog gets it right. The click is always followed by a treat. Gives precise timing feedback. | Teaching new behaviours, shaping complex tricks, dogs that benefit from very clear communication. Popular in dog sports like agility and nosework. | Recommended | The clicker itself isn't magic — it's a precision marker. A short word like "yes" works the same way if your timing is consistent. Clickers are just easier to keep consistent than voice. |
| Luring | Use a treat to physically guide the dog into position. Hold a treat above the nose and arc backward to lure a sit. Lower to the floor to lure a drop. The dog follows the food. | Teaching basic positions (sit, drop, stand) to beginners and puppies. Quick to get the first correct rep so you can reward it. | Recommended | Fade the lure quickly — within 5–10 reps — or the dog learns to follow your hand rather than respond to the verbal cue. Switch to rewarding from a treat pouch, not from the lure hand. |
| Capturing | Wait for the dog to offer the behaviour naturally, then mark and reward it. No prompting — you reward what the dog does on its own. Over time, the behaviour happens more often. | Behaviours the dog already does (sitting, lying down, making eye contact). Great for teaching calm or relaxed behaviour without micromanaging. | Recommended | Requires patience and good observation. Keep treats on you throughout the day so you're ready to capture behaviours as they happen. Works well combined with a marker word or clicker. |
| Shaping | Break a complex behaviour into tiny steps and reward each step toward the final goal. The dog figures out what earns the reward through trial and error. Uses a clicker or marker. | Advanced tricks, complex behaviours, dogs that enjoy problem-solving. Used heavily in dog sports and professional animal training. | Recommended | Takes practice for both the handler and the dog. Start with something simple (touch a target) to teach the dog the concept of "try things and get rewarded." Frustration means your steps are too big. |
| "Balanced" Training | Uses all four quadrants of operant conditioning — including positive punishment (adding something unpleasant) and negative reinforcement (removing something unpleasant). Often involves corrections, leash pops, or aversive tools alongside treats. | Marketed as a "best of both worlds" approach, but the inclusion of aversive methods makes it incompatible with current welfare science. | Not recommended | The name sounds reasonable, but research shows the aversive components increase stress, fear, and aggression risk. The RSPCA, AVA, and AVSAB all recommend against methods that include punishment or force. |
| Dominance / Alpha | Based on the idea that dogs are trying to dominate their owners and must be shown who's "pack leader." Involves alpha rolls, staring down, eating before the dog, blocking doorways, and physical corrections. | Nothing. The underlying theory has been discredited by the researchers whose wolf studies were originally misinterpreted to create it. | Avoid | Dominance theory in dog training is not supported by modern animal behaviour science. It increases fear, damages trust, and risks aggression. If a trainer mentions "alpha" or "pack leader," find a different trainer. |
| Aversive Tools | Shock collars (e-collars), prong collars, choke chains, citronella spray collars, and water spray used to punish unwanted behaviour through pain, discomfort, or startle. | Not recommended for any purpose. These tools suppress behaviour through fear without addressing the cause. | Avoid | Shock collars are banned in SA, ACT, QLD, and NSW (on companion animals). Prong collars are banned in several states. The RSPCA opposes all aversive training equipment. There is always a reward-based alternative. |
What You'll Find Here
Guides explaining how different training methods work: positive reinforcement, clicker training, luring, capturing, shaping, and marker training. We also cover what "balanced training" actually means (and why it's not what it sounds like), how to find a qualified reward-based trainer in Australia, what to expect from puppy school, red flags in dog training, and the tools and equipment that are worth buying versus the ones that aren't.