Every dog learns by the same principles — reward the behaviour you want, make it easy to get it right, be consistent. That doesn't change from breed to breed. What does change is what you're working with: the drives, the energy levels, the things the dog finds rewarding, and the stuff they're genetically hardwired to do whether you like it or not.
A Kelpie that won't stop herding the kids isn't broken. A Beagle that ignores your recall because it caught a scent isn't being stubborn. A Staffy that pulls you down the footpath isn't dominant. These are dogs doing what generations of selective breeding designed them to do. Training works best when you understand those instincts and work with them rather than against them.
The guides in this section are organised by breed group — matching the groups used across the Best Dog site. Each guide covers the typical training strengths and challenges for that group, what motivates them, common problems owners run into, and how to adjust your approach. We still recommend reward-based positive reinforcement for every breed. The difference is in the details: which rewards, how much exercise, how long a session, and where to focus your effort.
Training by Breed Group
| Breed Group | Typical Training Traits | Training Focus | Trainability | Australian Owner Tip |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gundog Breeds | Eager to please, food-motivated, active, mouthy as puppies. Retrievers, spaniels and pointers. Generally love working with their owner. | Channel retrieving and scenting instincts into fetch and nosework games. Teach a solid "drop it" early — they put everything in their mouth. Focus on loose-lead walking as they mature. | Easy–Moderate | Labradors and Goldens are Australia's most popular breeds. Don't mistake their friendliness for being "already trained" — they still need consistent work, especially on recall around water and other dogs. |
| Terrier Breeds | Bold, independent, high prey drive, easily aroused, persistent. Bred to hunt vermin — they make their own decisions fast. | Impulse control is priority one. Teach "leave it" and recall early with very high-value rewards. Keep sessions short and interesting — terriers get bored with repetition. Manage prey drive on walks (leads near wildlife). | Advanced | Staffies and Jack Russells are among the most common breeds in Australian shelters. Proper socialisation and consistent training from puppyhood makes a massive difference. They're smart — just not always interested in what you're asking. |
| Working Breeds | Intelligent, high energy, need a job, handler-focused. Includes herding (Kelpie, Border Collie) and guarding (Rottweiler, German Shepherd) breeds. | Provide mental stimulation — puzzle feeders, trick training, structured tasks. Herders need redirect training for nipping and chasing. Guard breeds need early, thorough socialisation with people and dogs. | Moderate–Advanced | Kelpies and Border Collies are bred for Australian conditions but need far more stimulation than a backyard can provide. Without a job, they invent one — and you won't like it. Consider dog sports like agility or nosework. |
| Hound Breeds | Independent, scent or sight driven, less focused on handler, can seem "stubborn." Beagles, Dachshunds, Greyhounds, Whippets. | Recall is the biggest challenge — never rely on off-lead recall with scent hounds. Use long lines for managed freedom. Sighthounds (Greyhounds, Whippets) need secure fencing and caution around small animals. | Advanced | Greyhound adoption is popular in Australia. Ex-racers are often calm indoors but may have zero recall training and high prey drive for small animals. Muzzle training and slow introductions to cats and small dogs are essential. |
| Toy / Teacup Breeds | People-focused, affectionate, can be anxious or reactive, often underestimated in training. Chihuahuas, Maltese, Pomeranians, Yorkies. | Don't skip training because they're small. Socialisation is just as important — under-socialised toy breeds often develop fear-based barking and snapping. Use tiny treats and very short sessions. Toilet training takes longer in small breeds. | Moderate | In apartments (common in Sydney and Melbourne), toy breeds are popular. They still need daily walks, mental enrichment and proper training — "carried everywhere" isn't socialisation, it's avoidance. |
| Non-Sporting Breeds | Highly varied group — includes Bulldogs, Poodles, Dalmatians, French Bulldogs, Shiba Inus. Traits depend entirely on the individual breed. | Research your specific breed within this group. Standard Poodles are highly trainable and active. French Bulldogs are food-motivated but overheat easily — train in cool conditions. Shiba Inus are independent and need patience. | Varies | French Bulldogs are one of the fastest-growing breeds in Australia. Keep training sessions short (they overheat quickly), avoid outdoor training in summer heat, and focus on loose-lead walking and impulse control. |
| Popular Crossbreeds | Cavoodles, Groodles, Labradoodles, Spoodles. Temperament varies depending on parent breeds and individual genetics — don't assume "best of both." | Train for the breed traits you actually see, not the ones you expected. Cavoodles often inherit Cavalier clinginess (watch for separation anxiety). Labradoodles can have very high energy from both parent lines. Socialise early and widely. | Easy–Moderate | Cavoodles are the most popular crossbreed in Australia. Many owners underestimate their exercise and training needs. They're smart, social dogs that do best with consistent reward-based training from day one. |
What You'll Find Here
Training guides organised by breed group: terriers, gundogs, hounds, working breeds, non-sporting, and toy/teacup breeds. We also cover popular Australian crossbreeds like Cavoodles, Groodles and Labradoodles, plus breed-specific articles for the most common dogs in Australian homes.