Most behaviour problems aren't the dog being naughty. They're the dog communicating something — boredom, anxiety, fear, frustration, or a need that isn't being met. A dog that barks all day while you're at work isn't trying to annoy the neighbours. It's telling you it can't cope with being alone. A dog that lunges on the lead isn't dominant. It's usually scared or over-aroused and hasn't been taught what to do instead.
Research from an Australian behaviour clinic analysing nearly 8,000 cases found that the three most common problems were aggression toward people, excessive barking, and anxiety-related behaviour. About half of all dogs surrendered to shelters in Australia are given up because of behaviour issues — most of which are preventable or treatable with the right approach.
Every guide in this section focuses on understanding the cause first, then working on the fix. We only recommend reward-based methods, which is the approach backed by the RSPCA, the Australian Veterinary Association, and the Pet Professional Guild Australia. No shock collars (illegal in several Australian states), no dominance-based techniques, no punishment. If a problem is beyond home training, we'll tell you — some issues need a vet behaviourist, not a YouTube video.
Common Dog Behaviour Problems
| Problem | Common Causes | What to Do | Severity | When to Get Help |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Excessive Barking | Boredom, loneliness, territorial behaviour, anxiety, attention-seeking, or responding to outside triggers like possums or other dogs. | Identify the trigger. Increase exercise and enrichment. Teach a "quiet" cue — reward silence, don't yell (the dog hears yelling as you joining in). Block visual triggers with window film if needed. | Medium | If barking continues all day while you're at work, or neighbours have lodged a council complaint. A vet check can rule out pain or cognitive decline in older dogs. |
| Separation Anxiety | Over-attachment, sudden change in routine (e.g. returning to office after working from home), lack of alone-time training as a puppy, rehomed or rescue dogs. | Build alone time gradually — start with seconds, not hours. Leave a stuffed Kong or puzzle feeder. Don't make departures or arrivals a big event. Desensitise to departure cues (picking up keys, putting on shoes). | High | If the dog is destructive, self-harming, toileting inside, or howling for extended periods. Severe cases often need a vet behaviourist and may require medication alongside training. |
| Leash Reactivity | Frustration, fear, lack of socialisation, or previous negative experiences on the lead. The dog lunges, barks, or growls at other dogs or people while on lead. | Increase distance from triggers. Reward calm behaviour before the dog reacts (use "watch me"). Use a front-clip harness for better control. Never tighten the lead or pull back — it increases tension. | High | If you can't walk your dog without incidents, or the dog's reactions are escalating. A qualified reward-based trainer can set up a structured desensitisation plan. |
| Aggression | Fear (most common), resource guarding, pain, poor socialisation, territorial behaviour, or redirected frustration. Aggression is a symptom, not a personality trait. | Do not punish — punishment makes aggression worse. Manage the environment to prevent incidents. Identify triggers and avoid them while working on a training plan. Muzzle train if needed for safety (positive association only). | High | Immediately. Aggression toward people or other dogs requires a veterinary behaviourist — not a general trainer. Rule out pain first. In Australia, reported dog bites can have legal consequences for the owner. |
| Jumping on People | Excitement, attention-seeking, or the dog has been unintentionally rewarded for jumping (any attention, including pushing away, counts as a reward). | Turn away and ignore when the dog jumps. Wait for four paws on the floor, then reward with calm attention. Ask visitors to do the same. Teach an alternative behaviour like sit-to-greet. | Low | Usually trainable at home. Seek help if the dog is large enough to knock people over or if jumping is paired with mouthing or nipping. |
| Destructive Chewing | Boredom, teething (puppies), anxiety, insufficient exercise, or the dog hasn't been taught what's appropriate to chew. | Provide plenty of safe chew toys (Kongs, nylabones, antlers). Dog-proof the house — remove access to shoes, furniture legs, cables. Increase physical and mental exercise. Redirect to an appropriate item if you catch them in the act. | Medium | If chewing only happens when you're away, it may be separation anxiety rather than boredom. If the dog is swallowing objects, see a vet — this is a safety issue. |
| Digging | Boredom, breed instinct (terriers, dachshunds), trying to escape, burying food, cooling down in hot weather, or hunting rodents in the garden. | Provide a designated digging pit (kiddie pool filled with sand, bury treats in it). Increase exercise and enrichment. If the dog digs to cool down, provide shade and a water shell. Block escape routes under fences. | Low | Digging itself is normal dog behaviour. Get help if digging is paired with escape attempts or anxiety-driven behaviour like pacing and howling. |
| Resource Guarding | The dog growls, stiffens, snaps, or bites when someone approaches food, toys, resting spots, or a person the dog is attached to. Rooted in insecurity, not dominance. | Don't take things away — trade up instead (offer something better). Toss treats toward the dog while they eat to build a positive association with your approach. Never punish growling — growling is a warning that prevents bites. | High | If the dog has snapped or bitten, or if guarding is directed at children. This needs a qualified behaviourist — DIY attempts can escalate the problem if done incorrectly. |
| Fear of Storms / Fireworks | Noise sensitivity, static electricity (storms), negative past experiences, or genetic predisposition. Very common in Australian dogs during storm season and NYE/cracker night. | Create a safe space (covered crate, interior room). Don't force the dog outside. Play white noise or calming music. Desensitise gradually using recorded sounds at low volume paired with treats. Consider a Thundershirt or anxiety wrap. | Medium | If the dog panics to the point of self-injury, escaping the yard, or refusing to eat for hours afterward. Your vet can prescribe short-term anti-anxiety medication for known events. |
| Pulling on the Lead | The dog has learned that pulling gets it where it wants to go faster. Most dogs are never taught what loose-lead walking actually looks like. | Stop walking the instant the lead goes tight. Wait for the dog to look back or slacken the lead, then reward and continue. Use a front-clip harness. Keep early sessions short — practise 30 seconds of heel, then allow free sniffing. | Low | Usually fixable at home with consistency. If the dog is large and pulling is a safety risk (elderly owner, small handler), a trainer can help with equipment selection and technique. |
What You'll Find Here
Guides covering the most common behaviour problems Australian dog owners deal with: excessive barking, separation anxiety, leash reactivity, aggression, jumping, digging, destructive chewing, resource guarding, fear of loud noises (storms, fireworks), and pulling on the lead. Each article explains why the behaviour happens, what makes it worse, and how to fix it step by step.