How to Train a Dachshund

Dachshunds have a reputation for being stubborn, and while there’s some truth to it, the bigger issue is that most people approach training a Dachshund the same way they’d train a Labrador or a Kelpie. That doesn’t work. This breed was developed to hunt badgers underground — independently, without waiting for instructions. That’s not stubbornness. That’s a dog bred to think for themselves.

Once you understand what drives a Dachshund, training becomes far less frustrating. They’re food-motivated, surprisingly clever, and respond well to reward-based methods — provided the sessions are short, varied, and worth their while.

This guide covers how to train a Dachshund in Australia, from the first weeks at home through to managing the breed’s most common habits: barking at everything, selective hearing, and the constant negotiation around who actually runs the household.

Dachshunds are intelligent but independently minded. Start training from 8 weeks using short, reward-based sessions. Prioritise toilet training (it takes longer with this breed), recall, and socialisation. Protect the Dachshund’s back during every training activity — use a harness, avoid jumping, and install ramps. Manage barking by rewarding quiet behaviour rather than punishing noise. Keep sessions under 10 minutes and always end on a win.

What Makes Dachshunds Different to Train?

Dachshunds were originally bred in Germany to flush badgers from underground burrows. That required a dog that was bold, persistent, and willing to make decisions without human direction. Those traits haven’t gone anywhere — they just show up differently in a suburban lounge room.

The ANKC classifies Dachshunds in the Hound group, and they come in two sizes (Standard and Miniature) and three coat types (Smooth, Longhaired, and Wirehaired). Training principles are the same across all varieties, but Miniatures can be slightly more anxious, while Wirehaired Dachshunds sometimes have a touch more terrier-like tenacity.

A few traits that directly affect training:

• They’re scent-driven. When a Dachshund picks up an interesting smell, everything else — including your recall cue — drops off the radar.
• They’re vocal. Dachshunds were bred to bark underground so their handlers could locate them. That barking instinct is strong and needs active management.
• They bond deeply but on their own terms. A Dachshund that trusts you will work with you. One that doesn’t will simply wait you out.
• Their backs are vulnerable. Every training decision should factor in spinal health. More on that below.

When Should Training Start?

Training should begin the day a Dachshund puppy comes home, usually around 8 to 9 weeks old. Puppies at this age are soaking up information about how the world works, and the habits formed now — good or bad — tend to stick.

Between 8 and 12 weeks, focus on name recognition, gentle handling (especially of paws, ears, and back), crate comfort, and the very first introduction to sit and come. Keep it playful. A Dachshund puppy that associates training with fun becomes an adult that’s willing to participate.

The critical socialisation window closes around 14 to 16 weeks. Before then, aim to expose the puppy to different people, surfaces, sounds, and environments. Puppy preschool at a vet practice is a good start — most accept pups after the first vaccination, and the controlled setting reduces disease risk.

Dachshunds can go through a bratty adolescent phase around 6 to 12 months. Training that seemed solid at 4 months may suddenly unravel. This is normal developmental behaviour, not defiance. Go back to basics, stay patient, and don’t lower the bar.

Protecting the Back During Training

No guide on how to train a Dachshund is complete without addressing Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD). This spinal condition affects a significant proportion of the breed — the Dachshund IVDD Support Australia group estimates roughly 1 in 4 Dachshunds will experience some form of disc episode in their lifetime.

Training decisions should always account for spinal health. That means:

• Using a well-fitted harness rather than a collar for all lead work. A harness distributes pressure across the chest and shoulders instead of the neck and spine.
• Teaching the dog to use ramps instead of jumping on and off furniture, beds, and cars. You can train “up” and “down” as cues for ramp use.
• Avoiding training exercises that involve jumping, twisting, or high-impact landings. Skip the agility jumps — focus on nose work and trick training instead.
• Carrying the Dachshund up and down stairs (or blocking stair access with baby gates). Always support both the chest and hindquarters when lifting.
• Keeping the dog at a healthy weight. Extra kilos put direct pressure on the spine. Your vet can advise on ideal body condition.

These aren’t restrictions that make life boring for the dog. Dachshunds can still run, play, and swim — the goal is to reduce sudden spinal stress, not wrap the dog in cotton wool.

How to Teach Basic Obedience Cues

Dachshunds learn quickly when motivated, but they bore just as fast. Sessions of 5 to 10 minutes are the sweet spot. If you push past that, the Dachshund will make a unilateral decision to end the session — usually by walking away or staring at you with studied indifference.

1. Sit. Hold a small, smelly treat (diced chicken, cheese, or Zeal freeze-dried liver treats) just above the nose and arc it slowly back over the head. As the nose goes up, the bottom goes down. Mark the moment the dog’s backside hits the floor with a “yes” and deliver the treat. Keep the lure low — Dachshunds are already close to the ground, so you don’t need much movement.
2. Come (recall). Start indoors, in a quiet room. Say the dog’s name followed by “come” in an upbeat voice. When they arrive, reward with a jackpot of several treats. Build this in low-distraction environments before trying it outside. Dachshunds have a strong prey drive, and a squirrel will always beat a biscuit unless recall is rock-solid.
3. Stay. Ask for a sit, then hold a flat palm out and say “stay.” Take one small step back. If the dog holds, mark and reward. Gradually increase distance over many sessions. Dachshunds find stay particularly difficult because they’d rather be investigating something, so keep durations short at first.
4. Leave it. Place a treat in a closed fist. The dog will sniff, lick, and paw at the hand. The moment the dog backs off or looks away, mark and reward with a different treat from the other hand. This cue is worth gold with a scent hound — Dachshunds will put their noses into everything.
5. Down. From a sit, lure the treat straight down between the front paws. Most Dachshunds fold into a down naturally. If yours stands up instead, try luring slightly forward. Mark and reward the instant the belly touches the floor.

Rotate between cues within a session to keep things interesting. If you drill the same cue five times in a row, a Dachshund will decide the game is no longer fun and opt out.

Toilet Training a Dachshund

Toilet training is widely considered the trickiest part of owning a Dachshund. The breed is more prone to toileting indoors than many others, partly because of their small bladders and partly because their independent streak means they’ll sometimes decide the backyard is too cold, too wet, or too boring.

The Routine

Take the puppy outside first thing in the morning, after every meal, after naps, after play sessions, and before bed. For young pups, that means every 1 to 2 hours during the day. Choose one designated toilet spot in the yard and use the same spot each time.

When the dog toilets outside, reward immediately — a treat and calm praise within two to three seconds. Late rewards don’t register. If you wait until the dog walks back inside, the reward gets connected to the walking, not the toileting.

When Accidents Happen

And they will. Dachshunds often take longer to become reliably house-trained than larger breeds — expect 4 to 8 weeks of consistent effort, sometimes more. Clean indoor accidents with an enzymatic cleaner to fully remove the scent. Standard household cleaners leave traces that invite a repeat performance.

Never punish a puppy for indoor accidents. A Dachshund that’s been scolded for toileting inside doesn’t learn to go outside — it learns to hide. Behind the couch, under a bed, in a corner nobody checks. That makes the problem worse, not better.

Crate training supports toilet training well, because most dogs won’t soil their sleeping area. But the crate must be the right size — large enough to stand and turn around, small enough that the dog won’t toilet in one end and sleep in the other. A comfortable bed, a stuffed Kong Classic, and calm background noise make the crate a positive space.

Managing the Barking

Dachshunds bark. A lot. This isn’t a flaw — the breed was developed to bark underground so hunters could locate them by sound. That instinct doesn’t switch off because the dog now lives in a flat in Fitzroy.

The most effective approach is teaching a “quiet” cue paired with rewarding silence, rather than punishing the barking. Here’s how that works:

1. Acknowledge the trigger. When the dog barks at a noise, calmly say “thank you” or “good dog” once. This acknowledges the alert — the dog has done the job of notifying you.
2. Redirect. Call the dog away from the trigger (the window, the door) and ask for a sit. The moment the dog stops barking and complies, mark and reward.
3. Build the pattern. Over time, the dog learns: bark once, come to you, sit, get a reward. The bark doesn’t disappear entirely (and you probably don’t want it to — a single alert bark is useful), but the frantic, sustained barking reduces.

Yelling at a barking Dachshund is counterproductive. From the dog’s perspective, you’re barking too, which confirms there’s something worth barking about.

If barking is a major issue in an apartment or townhouse, check body corporate noise rules in your complex. An under-stimulated Dachshund left alone for long stretches will bark more. Puzzle feeders, a mid-day walk from a dog walker, or a frozen lick mat can help fill the gaps.

Why Socialisation Matters for Dachshunds

An under-socialised Dachshund can become reactive, anxious, or fearful — and a fearful Dachshund often expresses fear through aggression. The breed’s natural wariness of strangers and boldness around other dogs makes early socialisation a priority, not an optional extra.

Between 3 and 16 weeks, aim to expose the puppy to a wide range of people (different ages, hats, beards, uniforms), other vaccinated dogs, household sounds (vacuum, blender, doorbell), different surfaces (grass, tiles, gravel, sand), and short car rides.

Keep experiences positive and short. A Dachshund that gets overwhelmed at a crowded dog park on day one may develop a lasting negative association with dogs. One calm, vaccinated friend’s dog in a backyard is a better starting point.

In Australia, off-leash areas and café culture are a big part of dog life. A well-socialised Dachshund can handle both — but only if the groundwork is done early. An unsocialised adult Dachshund who lunges and barks at every passing dog makes those outings stressful for everyone.

Exercise and Mental Enrichment

Dachshunds need more exercise than many people expect from a small dog. An adult typically benefits from around 30 to 60 minutes of activity per day, split across two outings. Walks should be brisk enough to build muscle tone — strong muscles support the spine and reduce IVDD risk.

During Australian summers (December through February), walk early in the morning or after sundown. Hot bitumen burns paw pads quickly, and Dachshunds are low to the ground, which means they absorb more radiant heat from the pavement than taller breeds.

Mental Stimulation

Dachshunds are scent hounds at heart, and nose-based enrichment is the single best way to tire them out mentally.

• Scatter feeding: toss kibble across the lawn and let the dog hunt for each piece
• Snuffle mats or rolled-up towels with treats hidden inside
• DIY scent trails around the house using treats or a few drops of diluted stock
• Trick training sessions — Dachshunds enjoy learning spin, shake, roll over, and “crawl” (a natural for a low-slung dog)
• Frozen Kongs stuffed with peanut butter (xylitol-free), banana, or Lyka fresh food

A Dachshund that gets daily mental enrichment is calmer, quieter, and less likely to dig up the garden or redesign the couch cushions.

Teaching Lead Manners

Dachshunds should always be walked on a well-fitted harness rather than a collar. A harness distributes pressure across the chest and avoids strain on the neck and spine. Brands like Rogz, EzyDog, and Puppia are widely available in Australian pet stores and come in sizes that fit Miniature and Standard Dachshunds.

Start by letting the puppy wear the harness around the house in short sessions. Once they’re comfortable, clip on a lightweight lead and let them drag it supervised. On early walks, reward every few steps that the dog walks beside you with the lead slack.

When the lead tightens, stop. Stand still. The moment the dog turns back or the lead loosens, mark and move forward. Walking only happens when the lead is loose. Dachshunds figure this out within a week or two if the rule is applied consistently.

Avoid retractable leads — they teach the dog that pulling creates distance, which is exactly the opposite of what you want.

Training Considerations for AU Owners

Heat and pavement. Test the pavement with the back of your hand before every summer walk. If you can’t hold it there for five seconds, the ground is too hot for paws. Carry water on every walk and watch for signs of overheating (excessive panting, drooling, stumbling). Dachshunds are small and low to the ground, making them more susceptible to heat radiating off hot surfaces.

Council registration and off-leash areas. Most Australian councils require dogs to be registered and microchipped. Off-leash rules vary by council — check your local council’s website for designated off-leash parks, beaches, and time restrictions. A solid recall is non-negotiable before letting any dog off-lead, and with Dachshunds, a long line (5–10 metre training lead) is a safer intermediate step.

Paralysis ticks and hazards. Along the east coast from spring through autumn, paralysis ticks are a serious risk for all dogs. Dachshunds are low to the ground and push through undergrowth, making tick checks after every walk especially worth doing. Talk to your vet about tick prevention. In rural areas, 1080 poison baits are another hazard — a strong “leave it” cue can be lifesaving.

Apartment living. Dachshunds can adapt well to apartment life in Australia, but barking and toileting are the two areas that cause problems. Check body corporate by-laws around pets, noise, and breed or weight restrictions before committing. An under-exercised, under-stimulated Dachshund in a small space will make themselves heard.

Common Mistakes Dachshund Owners Make

Treating the small dog differently. Picking a Dachshund up every time they bark, growl, or lunge at another dog teaches the dog that this behaviour gets results. If a 30kg dog did it, the owner would address it. Small dogs deserve the same training standards.

Giving up on toilet training too early. Dachshunds take longer to house-train than many breeds. Declaring the dog “untrainable” at the six-week mark is premature. Stick with the routine, use enzymatic cleaners, and keep going.

Over-indulging with food. Dachshunds are enthusiastic eaters and exceptional guilt-trippers. But obesity is one of the biggest risk factors for IVDD. Training treats should be tiny — pea-sized — and factored into the daily calorie intake.

Letting the dog set all the rules. A Dachshund allowed to resource-guard the couch, bark at visitors unchecked, and refuse to come when called isn’t a “sassy” dog. The dog is stressed, confused about boundaries, and running a household they’re not equipped to manage. Clear, consistent rules are kinder than no rules.

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When to Get Professional Help

If a Dachshund is showing resource guarding (growling or snapping when approached near food, toys, or resting spots), separation anxiety that doesn’t improve with gradual training, or reactive behaviour on walks that’s escalating, it’s time to call in help.

Look for a trainer or veterinary behaviourist who uses reward-based methods. The Australian Veterinary Association recommends positive reinforcement as the most effective and humane approach to behaviour modification. Your local vet can refer you to a qualified veterinary behaviourist. State-based animal welfare organisations also maintain directories of accredited trainers.

Getting help early — before a behaviour becomes deeply entrenched — is always easier and cheaper than trying to unravel a years-long habit.

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Frequently Asked Questions